[followups set to rec.food.equipment]

I've outgrown my 6-Qt. Fagor Digital Multirapid, and am ready for
something larger (I think an 8-Qt. will do). Also, the pressure
regulator (one of the new generation spring mechanism valves) has
always leaked more steam than I would like. Most of the local cookware
specialty shops carry Kuhn Rikon and proclaim it to be the best. High
quality pressure cookers are expensive (in case no one has noticed
), so I decided to do my homework this time before buying one. Little
did I imagine what a project this would turn out to be. Since some
of my research came from archived posts in these groups, I thought I'd
return the favor and post my results (not to mention that my thoughts
were made much clearer in the writing of this).

This has become a lengthy article. For those who may want me to "cut to
the chase, already!", I finally bought the Kuhn Rikon 8-liter stockpot
shown on
<http://www.kuhnrikon.com/products/pressure_cookers/pressure.php3?id=21>
at a Sur La Table (<http://www.surlatable.com/>, Item #107987) retail
location for (with tax) just under $200. My reasons, simply stated: low
moisture loss; minimum number of "consumable" (rubber) parts; parts are
widely available, available separately (not necessary to order an
entire [expensive] assembly just to replace one failed part), and
likely to remain available for a long time (Kuhn Rikon promises 15
years); simple and effective design means easy maintenance; customer
service available from manufacturer/distributor. Magefesa and Fagor are
less expensive on the initial purchase, but I think the Kuhn Rikon will
turn out to be the better value over the long term. For the details,
read on!


Cook's Illustrated Magazine has been described as the "Consumer
Reports" of cooking because they take no advertising, and publish
reviews of equipment and cookware (I wish I had known about it before I
bought my Fagor). A synopsis of their often cited 1996 article on
pressure cookers, which ranks the Magefesa Super Rapida/Rapid II as
better than a Kuhn Rikon Duromatic, has been posted to Usenet. It can
be read he
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...840fdece?hl=en
The article (and other pressure cooker tips) is discussed at
<http://missvickie.com/library/review.html>. Not surprisingly, Miss
Vickie likes Kuhn Rikon.

As she also points out, this article is woefully out of date. Much has
changed in the way of manufacturers' offerings since it was published.
Cook's Illustrated produced an updated review in Jan 2005, which they
published to their website only (subscription fee required to access).
A synopsis of this article follows below. The Cook's Illustrated/Cook's
Country/America's Test Kitchen website is at
<http://www.cooksillustrated.com/>. Enter "pressure cookers" in the
search box and select "Equipment Corner" from the drop-down menu to see
the link. Click the "Cook's Illustrated Index" link to see what
articles were published in various issues of the (printed on paper)
magazine.

MAGEFESA

The Magefesa Rapid II is no longer made (or, at least, no longer
imported to the US). The Super Rapida line now has 13 models. To see
them, visit CMD Magefesa, Spain, at
<http://www.magefesa.com/menaje/ingles.htm>, select "catalogue," then
"Super fast pressure cookers." Unfortunately, they provide almost no
information about features. Reliance Pacific, their distributor in
Australia, carries several of their models. They offer descriptions,
comparison charts, etc. See them at
<http://www.rpb2.com.au/catalogue/products.cfm?catname=megafesa>.

The US distributors of Magefesa, North American Promotions, Ltd., can
be visited at <http//www.magefesausa.com/>. They list a line of
pressure cookers they call the "Classic". This model looks similar to
(but not identical with) the "Arian" pictured on the CMD Magefesa,
Spain website.

Based on the comparison chart at Reliance Pacific
(<http://www.rpb2.com/web-content/Pages/Compare_SF.html>), I thought
that the Magefesa Supernova (top of the line ) looked appealing, so
I called North Am. Promos (they generously provide a toll-free number,
888-705-8700) to ask if they could order one for me. My conversation
with their rep was most interesting. They carry that one line (the
"Classic") only, she said, because they have to pay for whichever
models they want to import to be tested and certified at Underwriters
Labs ("UL approved"), which is expensive. They chose that particular
model because it is the one favored by the retailers that they supply.

The most significant fact about the Classic, as the rep described it to
me, is that it uses what some call a "modified" or "developed" weight,
rather than a spring pressure regulator valve. She claimed that the
Classic's valve is easier to clean than a spring valve and, if I recall
correctly, less prone to malfunction if food gets lodged up in it. I
don't know about that-- I've always found the valve in my Fagor
Multirapid to be simple enough to dis- and re-assemble (but then I'm
mechanically inclined) and easy to clean. I regularly overfill the pot
(which is why I want an 8-Qt. cooker), but have never had the valve get
stuck from food getting into it.

ADVANTAGES OF SPRING VALVES

I searched for an article on the web or in the newsgroups archives that
compares developed weight and spring valves, but found nothing. The
developed weight valve works like the old "jiggle-top" valve, except
that it slides up and down inside a guide so that it doesn't jiggle.
From all I've read, though, it sounds like the spring valve has three
advantages:

1) It's easy to design one to double as a pressure indicator. As the
valve rises, it pushes up a marked stem that indicates when the cooker
is up to pressure. The heat can then be adjusted so that the valve does
not open to release steam. (My Fagor works that way. So do the Kuhn
Rikon and WMF models, and some Magefesa models.) A weight valve cooker
would need a separate pressure indicator (picture an old-style canner
with a dial gage) to have the same functionality. Otherwise, the only
way to know when a weight valve cooker is up to pressure is when the
valve is releasing steam. A separate indicator would be an added
expense, so a manufacturer might be reluctant to include one.

2) With a cooker that doesn't constantly vent (or leak) steam while it
is cooking, less water is required. Flavor and nutrients are kept
inside the cooker, and particularly inside the food (less leaches out
into the water). Also, less heat energy is required to maintain
pressure.

3) A spring valve can be designed for several pressure settings, where
the valve opens to release steam if the setting is exceeded. A
developed weight cooker would probably require a set of weights to
accomplish the same thing. (I once saw a "jiggle valve" canner where
the weight was a disk with three holes around the rim, with the
corresponding pressures stamped on the disk [seat the appropriate hole
on the vent pipe to set the cooker to that pressure]). My Fagor Digital
Multirapid has three settings. Current Fagor and Magefesa spring valve
models have two. Kuhn Rikon and WMF models have no settings, just low
pressure marks on their indicators (requiring the cook to monitor more
closely to maintain the desired pressure).


Here, as promised, is a synopsis (with notes and discussion-- "My own
observations") of the article:

COOK'S ILLUSTRATED: PRESSURE COOKERS: JANUARY, 2005

The reviewers write that, since modern pressure cookers are safe
(unlikely to explode), "...we rated the cookers we tested by price,
performance, and convenience." In deciding which cookers to test,
"...we eliminated electronic pressure cookers, which don't allow the
cook to modify or change a recipe procedure once the pot is sealed; we
wanted more control." Aluminum pots heat unevenly which can lead to
scorching (particularly when browning or sautÚing), and aluminum reacts
with acidic foods, so they preferred stainless steel. They wanted
cookers with the capacity to prepare 8 servings (six quarts), so they
decided to test 8-Qt. models. "Finally, we wanted widely available
models."

Based on this criteria, they decided to test "...the Innova Stainless 8
Quart ($89.99), the Stainless Presto 8 Quart ($68.43), the WMF Perfect
Plus 8.5 Quart ($197.99), the Magefesa Classic 8 Quart ($85.00), the
Fagor Duo 8 Quart ($109.99), and the Kuhn Rikon Duromatic 7.35 quart
($169.00)." The Magefesa is available at <http//www.magefesausa.com/>,
the others at <http://www.amazon.com/>.

"We conducted four tests. We boiled water to evaluate the time it took
each cooker to reach full pressure and then release pressure, also
measuring moisture loss. We sprinkled flour evenly on the bottom and
used direct heat to see it [sic] the pans had cold or hot spots or
scorched easily. We prepared risotto, which requires quick pressure
release, and baked beans, which require natural release. We also judged
the pots on ease of cleaning, but all of them cleaned easily.

"Three cookers cannot be recommended. The Innova comes with several
parts (pressure regulator, weights, and cleaning wire) that are
detached after using and are easily lost. The Presto scorched a little,
has short handles that get hot quickly, and has a valve that directs
steam directly upward, where it can easily burn hands. The Duromatic
showed no advantage over its much less expensive competitors; in fact,
it has several shortcomings. There is no indication of when the handle
is locked in place, and the procedure for quick pressure release is
hard to follow, requiring that you place only the rim of the pot under
running water."

Interestingly, they later list the Duromatic as "recommended with
reservations." Here is what they say about those models they recommend
(listed in order of preference):

*Recommended*

Fagor Duo 8 Quart (#85M7):

What they liked: "...an excellent handle that locks solidly, easy-to-
read markings indicating pressure and quick-release positions, a valve
that indicates when the pot is under pressure, and a wide bottom with
ample sautÚing space. It also comes with clear instructions and a
well-written recipe book." "...this cooker's quick-release valve is
larger than the Magefesa's, and the steam is more carefully directed
away from the cook."

What they didn't like: Like the Magefesa described below, the way that
the valve indicates the cooker is up to full pressure is that it emits
a "gentle steady stream of steam." "There is a pressure indicator, but
it kicks in only when all pressure has been released." The cook is left
to figure out by experience what a "gentle steady stream of steam"
means.

My own observations: The USA distributors' website is at
<http://www.fagoramerica.com/>. Particularly worth viewing is their
description of the Duo at
<http://www.fagoramerica.com/presscookers/duom.htm>. This is a spring
valve model with two pressure settings: 8.5 and 15 PSI. If what the
reviewers say above is true, then Fagor threw away the best potential
benefit of a spring valve by leaving off the pressure indicator,
leaving this model to operate the way a weighted valve cooker does (by
venting steam to regulate pressure). It appears from the photographs on
their website that none of the Fagor spring valve models include
pressure indicators.

Accessories and replacement parts ordering are available on-line.
Customer service is prompt in responding, but not always courteous. I
wanted to order a replacement rubber washer for the spring valve in my
Multirapid. What wasn't clear to me from their web pages was that I
would have to order the _entire valve assembly_ in order to get it. I
got a somewhat irritated response from customer service when I pressed
the point. Their parts pages have been improved since then, though, and
clearly show what is available for order.

Fagor gaskets last me a little more than two years, even though I oil
them (which helps to keep the rubber soft and flexible). I use my Fagor
about once a week, and cook mostly soup in it. I don't know if this is
an average lifespan compared to other pressure cookers. With shipping
and handling, a new gasket ordered from the distributor is just under
$20.

*Recommended with reservations*

Magefesa Classic 8 Quart (PG 04008):

What they liked: "...quick steam time (time it takes to reach a steam),
good locking handle, consistent performance under high pressure, and
reasonable price."

What they didn't like: "It has no pressure indicator, instead asking
the cook to judge when high pressure is reached based on the emission
of 'gentle steady flow of steam.' We also had some concern with the
quick release mechanism. The valve, which is needed to turn for quick
release, has a small grip which became hot. It was also difficult to
turn, and, when opened, the spew of steam could hit your hands." They
point out that it is advisable to wear "protective hand coverings"
(like oven mitts) when opening the quick release valve on any pressure
cooker.

My own observations: As mentioned above, the US distributors can be
reached at <http//www.magefesausa.com/>. Their pages offer little
information, and the only part listed for on-line ordering is a
replacement gasket. Fortunately, they offer a toll-free customer
service telephone number as well as an email web form. The customer
service rep with whom I spoke was helpful and energetic in promoting
her product. As mentioned above, this is a developed weight model.

Interestingly, Reliance Pacific, the Australian distributor that offers
several Magefesa models and a fair amount of information on their
website does not have any pages where spare parts are listed.

WMF Perfect Plus 8.5 Quart (8 liters) (#0793149300):

What they liked: "The WMF cooker came the closest to our ideal. It
comes with a solidly locking handle; good high- and zero-pressure
indication; easy quick release, with steam directed away from the cook;
and a clear instruction manual." The lid handle is detachable and easy
to clean. "...it has a well-marked valve that indicates low and high
pressure..." so it apparently indicates high, low, and zero pressure.

What they didn't like: A hefty price tag of just under $200 (and Amazon
has the best price-- SRP is more like $220), which is "...almost twice
as much as the other two acceptable models" (the Fagor and Magefesa).
"...many of the cooks in the test kitchen so disliked the low hum the
cooker emits at high pressure that they said they would never want it
in their kitchen." They found these negative points sufficiently
objectionable that they decided to rate it third, despite their writing
that it "came the closest to our ideal."

My own observations: The US distributor is <http://www.wmf-usa.com/>. I
checked the site map and, other than the sizes available, could find no
information about this product. I also could not find pages for
ordering parts. An email address is provided, but no customer service
telephone number. Two customers have posted reviews to Amazon claiming
that they could not get warranty service for defective units. I sent an
email full of questions to the provided address on July 20th. I will
see if it brings an answer-- it's been a few days, and there has been
none so far. In the mean time, I'm starting to get the feeling that
customer service at WMF may be non-existent.

The most useful information I was able to find is at Amazon, on their
page describing the 6.5-Qt. model. The product description states that,
"In the event that excessive pressure begins to build up, an integrated
safety feature audibly indicates the need to reduce heat." A review
posted on the same page describes this sound as a "hooting" noise (and
reports that the cooker "does not make any noise" otherwise). It's hard
to say if this is the "low hum" reported above.

The price is steep, but an 8-liter Kuhn Rikon stockpot is about the
same (SRP $200), while the same sized (professional grade) pressure
cooker has an SRP of $330 (see
<http://www.kuhnrikon.com/products/pressure_cookers/index.html>). For
some reason, the staff at Cook's Illustrated decided to break their own
criteria (8-Qt. cookers) and tested the next smaller Kuhn Rikon
Duromatic (7 liters).

I managed to find a local retailer that has a WMF (7 liter) and so was
able to see the unit and the owner's book first hand. The pressure
indicator that rises is only an indicator, and not a valve at all.
There is a separate relief valve that opens (with the audible alarm)
only when the pressure rises too high. This valve does not have
pressure settings-- lower pressure cooking is accomplished by
monitoring the indicator and adjusting the heat. The lid is locked with
a sliding mechanism that will not release while there is pressure in
the cooker-- sliding it to the open position opens the quick release
valve. The release control is at the end of the handle, well away from
where the steam is released. Steam is vented from under the handle and
directed across the lid, away from the cook.

The quickly detachable lid handle is made possible by integrating into
it the pressure indicator mechanism, relief valve, and lid lock. When
the handle is locked into place on the lid, the pressure indicator and
relief valve seat and seal against matching holes in the lid. These
mechanisms are covered with rubber seals to prevent food and water from
getting up into them, which is what makes cleaning so easy.

Unfortunately, it looks like the handle has no user-replaceable parts,
including the rubber seals, which are bound to deteriorate after a few
years (just like the rubber gasket does). In that case, it probably
will be necessary to replace the entire handle/valve/indicator/release
assembly, which no doubt will be expensive. I cannot determine how
expensive because I cannot find a web site that lists parts for the WMF
other than the gaskets (on the <http://www.morethankitchen.com/> WMF
page is the statement "We also sell replacement parts for the Perfect
Pressure Cooker and the Perfect Plus Pressure Cooker. Please contact us
for more information."-- perhaps they fear that listing parts prices
might scare away WMF customers?). Parts ordering is not available on
the WMF website, and the owner's manual (which has a parts list) only
suggests checking local sources.

The lid also has an emergency pressure relief in the form of a rubber
plug with a ball bearing inside. Someone posted a review to Amazon
stating that the ball would sometimes not seal. It certainly won't when
the rubber becomes old and hard. In that case, it will probably be
necessary to replace the entire lid (if you can find one).

Lastly, a small warning about Amazon: They for some reason have two
pages listing the 8.5-Qt. WMF. One of them, at
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0006GAIKU/> describes a
"WMF/USA 0793149300 Perfect Plus Stainless Steel Pressure Cooker" that
is actually provided by <http://www.cooking.com/> at the full SRP of
$220. But Amazon also offers this cooker at the price mentioned in the
review at <http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000060NT0/>, where
it is simply described as a WMF "Perfect Plus 8.5-Quart Pressure
Cooker." Go figure.

Kuhn Rikon Duromatic 7.4 Quart (7 Liter):

What they liked: The valve clearly shows high and low pressure (spring
valve with an indicator).

What they didn't like: As quoted above, "There is no indication of when
the handle is locked in place..." "...we were uncomfortable with the
fact that the handle has no locking mechanism."

They also wrote that there is no quick release valve. One must do it
the old fashioned way, by running the lid under cold water. They say
that the instructions indicate that only the rim should be placed under
the running water, which is something they found very awkward to do in
a kitchen sink with a large, hot, and heavy pot.

My own observations: The US distribution site is at
<http://www.kuhnrikon.com/>. Parts can be ordered from their partners,
Culinary Parts Unlimited, at <http://www.culinaryparts.com/>. A
customer service telephone number is provided, but regrettably it is not
toll-free. Email contact is also available through a web form.

There's lots of information at the website, some of which seems to
answer the test cooks' objections. The features list at
<http://www.kuhnrikon.com/products/pressure_cookers/pressure.php3?id=14>
states that it has an "integrated automatic locking system." The
reviewers' comments could easily leave the reader to think that there
is no lid lock at all, but their statements are true if taken
literally-- there is no lock indicator as such, and no release button/
switch/knob/whatever. My Fagor doesn't have a lock indicator, other
than that the release switch is itself locked. But the valve is an
indicator, in the sense that the lid cannot be opened until it has
dropped all the way down.

The Duromatic FAQ pages reveal that there is in fact a quick release,
which is integrated into the main regulator valve. "The valve on the
lid of the DUROMATIC pressure cooker releases the pressure quickly by a
light finger touch or, if you desire, you may use a long-handled spoon
or spatula to depress the insulated, black valve cap."
(<http://www.kuhnrikon.com/products/pressure_cookers/faq.php3?id=2>).

I went to have a look at a Duromatic. The owner's manual clearly
describes how to activate the quick release (and includes a diagram).
I don't understand how the reviewers at Cooks Illustrated could have
missed it, since it is right next to the "rinse the rim" instructions
of which they complain. Perhaps their manual did not include these
instructions.

The lid lock is simple and ingenious. Two plastic spring-loaded buttons
project inside the rim to displace the gasket, preventing it from
sealing. These buttons are forced to retract only when the lid is fully
closed on the pot (they can be heard to click). In other words, the
cooker cannot build pressure if the lid is not properly closed. Locking
is accomplished as in the pressure cookers of old-- steam expands the
gasket and lifts the lid, which locks the lid and pot flanges against
each other. It is possible (though difficult) to rotate the lid when a
tiny amount of pressure remains, but then the buttons displace the
gasket and release the pressure before the lid is fully disengaged, so
that it is not blown off.

The regulator valve/pressure indicator is a marvel of elegant
simplicity. It remains open when all the way down, until a steady flow
of steam (which indicates that air in the pot has all been driven out)
pushes the little valve plunger up into its chamber and against the
spring. (The WMF uses an ill-conceived ball bearing in a rubber plug to
accomplish the same thing.) Increasing pressure pushes the plunger
further up, which pushes up the indicator. Like the WMF (and unlike
Fagor and others), the valve does not have a low pressure setting-- the
indicator simply has a low pressure mark. If the pressure becomes too
high, the plunger is pushed past vent holes that release steam. The
plunger fits very closely inside the chamber, so that very little steam
escapes past it. The valve is recessed in a splash guard that helps to
keep food out.

Rubber parts are kept to a minimum: the gasket, an emergency relief
valve, and perhaps a seal between the main valve assembly and lid. The
regulator valve itself has no rubber or plastic parts. The owner's
manual claims the valve is self-cleaning, but disassembly is simple if
cleaning is required. Valve parts replaceable by the user are available
separately, and the rubber emergency relief valve is apparently
(according to the owner's manual) also user-replaceable.

On the down side, the reviewers' complaint about having to rinse the
rim is valid. The regulator valve is located in a deep recess in the
middle of the lid. This recess is not visible in photographs because it
is hidden by the steam deflector, which is shaped to match the shape of
the lid. If water gets into this recess, it will indeed be sucked into
the cooker when it depressurizes and the valve opens, just as the
owner's manual states. This would be my main objection to the Kuhn
Rikon. If I did not have a hose and sprayer on my kitchen sink, I'd
probably have to use a pot to pour water over this cooker (especially
because the 8-liter stockpot is very tall).

The 8 and 12-liter professional grade cookers (see
<http://www.kuhnrikon.com/products/pressure_cookers/pressure.php3?id=15>,
<http://www.kuhnrikon.com/products/pressure_cookers/pressure.php3?id=16>,
and <http://pleasanthillgrain.com/kuhn_rikon.asp>) perhaps may not have
this recess (at least, judging from the pictures). A Kuhn Rikon
customer service rep told me that these cookers are more expensive
(compare the 8-liter one to the 8-liter stockpot) because they are made
of a heavier gage steel, and are designed to be in constant use. For
the home user, the added expense may not be justified just to make the
rinse-with-water quick release method easier to use.

The steam deflector is the weakest part of the cooker because it is
held in place with three thin bakelite (which is brittle) "fingers"
which can easily be broken while washing, or if the lid is dropped.
Also beware of the valve stem/indicator knob, which is highly exposed
in its location at the peak of the lid. It could easily be bent (or
perhaps even broken off) if the lid is dropped or mishandled.
Protection of the valve stem would be another reason (besides
preserving the gasket) for storing the cooker with the lid inverted.

END OF ARTICLE SYNOPSIS

Product review articles like this seem unable to tell us what happens
after the product is taken home. Unanswered questions include: How long
does it last? How long do the "consumable" parts (eg. rubber parts)
last? Are the consumable parts available separately, or does one have
to buy entire (expensive) assemblies to replace them? Are parts widely
available? Does the manufacturer discontinue models frequently, and for
how long after a model is discontinued will parts still be available?
Does the manufacturer or distributor provide customer service? What are
the terms of the warranty and, if warranty service is needed, will the
customer be given the benefit of the doubt in questionable cases?

Minimal water loss is an important feature to me, so that means that I
want a spring valve model with indicator, and one that is well made so
as to minimize leakage. The Magefesa Supernova has all the features I
want (of course, I have no idea how much it leaks). Reliance Pacific,
Magefesa's Australian distributor, offers it for about US$140 (at
current exchange rates), which sounds like a bargain. But there are
shipping fees to consider (assuming they will even ship to the US), and
terms of payment (more expense if they want it wired to them). And then
customer service and parts ordering would be in Australia, too.

Fagor and Magefesa seem to discontinue models frequently. I bought my
Fagor only 6 years ago, and my model is not even shown on the parts
page ("If you do not see your pressure cooker shown above...",
customers are to call or email). Current models use the same gasket,
but anything else (like that valve assembly-- the rubber washer is now
deteriorated past use) may be in doubt. The Magefesa Rapid II is no
longer made, either. Are parts (besides the gasket) available for that
cooker? I first went shopping for another cooker a couple of years ago,
when my last Fagor gasket started failing. As I recall, the Kuhn Rikon
models pictured then looked identical to current ones. Apart from their
15 year promise, parts should be available for at least as long as they
keep making the same models.

Fagor and WMF make their valve assemblies with consumable parts such
that entire assemblies must be replaced in order to replace the
consumables. I have not seen a Magefesa and haven't been able to get a
look at a parts list for one of their cookers, so I don't know if they
do the same. The WMF and Magefesa websites I have found provide little
or no useful information in this regard. Kuhn Rikon parts are available
from Culinary parts at
<http://www.culinaryparts.com/btc/selectmodels.aspx?Brand=Kuhn%20Rikon&Type=Duromati c%20Pressure%20Cooker&Parts=Y>,
where they are listed, shown, and priced clearly. It is for all these
reasons, and despite the objectionable "rinse the rim only" issue, that
I went with Kuhn Rikon.