I hope this is the correct group for a query such as this if not could
someone point me in the right direction.

We have a Viking 30in VGIC and when we turn on the right front burner the
right rear and left rear ignitors keep clacking(reigniting). The RF works
fine, ignites the gas, and we get a nice flame. This symptom only occurs on
the RF. The LF work fine. The LR lights fine but it does fire the RR ignitor
ONCE. The RR works fine.

Basically we can get all the burners to light correctly but the RF causes
itself and two other ignitors to fire.

I've looked at the wiring diagram but it doesn't really help as the
reignitor circuitry is in a "black box" anyway. Right know that's where I'm
guessing the failure is occuring but I don't know under what conditions the
reignitor circuit asks the ignitor to fire.

Can anyone explain how the reignitor circuit knows when to fire the ignitor?

Any suggestions, I am pretty experinced with troubleshooting simple
electronic/electrical circuits?

Thanks,
Greg

Kilowatt wrote:
I hope this is the correct group for a query such as this if not could
someone point me in the right direction.

We have a Viking 30in VGIC and when we turn on the right front burner the
right rear and left rear ignitors keep clacking(reigniting). The RF works
fine, ignites the gas, and we get a nice flame. This symptom only occurs on
the RF. The LF work fine. The LR lights fine but it does fire the RR ignitor
ONCE. The RR works fine.

Basically we can get all the burners to light correctly but the RF causes
itself and two other ignitors to fire.

I've looked at the wiring diagram but it doesn't really help as the
reignitor circuitry is in a "black box" anyway. Right know that's where I'm
guessing the failure is occuring but I don't know under what conditions the
reignitor circuit asks the ignitor to fire.

Can anyone explain how the reignitor circuit knows when to fire the ignitor?

Any suggestions, I am pretty experinced with troubleshooting simple
electronic/electrical circuits?

Thanks,
Greg



Interested in any replies. My mother's Dacor is doing the same.


jim

rec.food.equipment

"Kilowatt" wrote in message
om...
I hope this is the correct group for a query such as this if not could
someone point me in the right direction.

We have a Viking 30in VGIC and when we turn on the right front burner the
right rear and left rear ignitors keep clacking(reigniting). The RF works
fine, ignites the gas, and we get a nice flame. This symptom only occurs
on
the RF. The LF work fine. The LR lights fine but it does fire the RR
ignitor
ONCE. The RR works fine.

Basically we can get all the burners to light correctly but the RF causes
itself and two other ignitors to fire.

I've looked at the wiring diagram but it doesn't really help as the
reignitor circuitry is in a "black box" anyway. Right know that's where
I'm
guessing the failure is occuring but I don't know under what conditions
the
reignitor circuit asks the ignitor to fire.

Can anyone explain how the reignitor circuit knows when to fire the
ignitor?

Any suggestions, I am pretty experinced with troubleshooting simple
electronic/electrical circuits?

Thanks,
Greg

JimLane wrote:
Kilowatt wrote:
I hope this is the correct group for a query such as this if not
could someone point me in the right direction.

We have a Viking 30in VGIC and when we turn on the right front
burner the right rear and left rear ignitors keep
clacking(reigniting). The RF works fine, ignites the gas, and we get
a nice flame. This symptom only occurs on the RF. The LF work fine.
The LR lights fine but it does fire the RR ignitor ONCE. The RR
works fine.

Basically we can get all the burners to light correctly but the RF
causes itself and two other ignitors to fire.

I've looked at the wiring diagram but it doesn't really help as the
reignitor circuitry is in a "black box" anyway. Right know that's
where I'm guessing the failure is occuring but I don't know under
what conditions the reignitor circuit asks the ignitor to fire.

Can anyone explain how the reignitor circuit knows when to fire the
ignitor?

Any suggestions, I am pretty experinced with troubleshooting simple
electronic/electrical circuits?

Thanks,
Greg



Interested in any replies. My mother's Dacor is doing the same.


jim

You aren't going to like this.
Odds are it's the 'black box'.
Try this; With a stiff, dry tooth or some such - even onto a wire brush.
clean the area where the sensor is. This will be the little metal peg
sticking out of the side of the burner where the spark happens. It also
doubles as a probe which senses the presence of gas by comparing the
electrical resistance of gas to air. Any crud in the vicinity of said sensor
(carbon left from spills) will result in false readings and the attenpt to
light a burmer that is not turned on.If the cleaning fails to rectify the
problem replacement (of the black box) is the only cure.*common to all
brands as far as I know!

Replacement will cost you a bundle (unless you still have a warranty).
Been there and done that. When the replacement failed (less than two
momths - made in Taiwan) I unplugged the damn thing and fell back on the
good old low tech hand-held spark lighter. Satisfied ever since. Regards.
Ken.

--
http://www.rupert.net/~solar
Return address supplied by 'spammotel'
http://www.spammotel.com

Try this; With a stiff, dry tooth or some such - even onto a wire brush.
clean the area where the sensor is. This will be the little metal peg
sticking out of the side of the burner where the spark happens. It also
doubles as a probe which senses the presence of gas by comparing the
electrical resistance of gas to air. Any crud in the vicinity of said sensor
(carbon left from spills) will result in false readings and the attenpt to
light a burmer that is not turned on.If the cleaning fails to rectify the
problem replacement (of the black box) is the only cure.*common to all
brands as far as I know!

Replacement will cost you a bundle (unless you still have a warranty).
Been there and done that. When the replacement failed (less than two
momths - made in Taiwan) I unplugged the damn thing and fell back on the
good old low tech hand-held spark lighter. Satisfied ever since. Regards.
Ken.

Piezoelectric igniters don't work that way, you dumb putz... they are as dumb
as you, they sense nothing.

That stove is wired incorrectly... but that's to be expected, Viking stove QC
is shit.


---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =---
---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =---
Sheldon
````````````
"Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."

Folks thanks for all the replies.

Jim I posted the same question over in rec.food.equipment so take a look
over there also for possible replies.

Ken Thanks for the pointers although I'm still not clear on how a ignitor
becomes a sensor...but there's got to be a sensor somewhere. I'll clean em
and see what happens. Do you remember what that circuit/black box cost you?

Penmart - I have never understood those kinds of responses to newsgroup
questions...maybe it's something personal between you and Ken, I really
don't care, but if you have some knowledge you'd like to share, I'm
listening. As far as Viking QC, I'm inclined to agree with you...but if it
had been wired incorrectly from the factory why did these symptoms appear
after three years of working fine.

Mompegram - thanks for the referal to rec.food.equipment I posted over there
this morning.

Thanks again,
Greg
"Kilowatt" wrote in message
om...
I hope this is the correct group for a query such as this if not could
someone point me in the right direction.

We have a Viking 30in VGIC and when we turn on the right front burner the
right rear and left rear ignitors keep clacking(reigniting). The RF works
fine, ignites the gas, and we get a nice flame. This symptom only occurs
on
the RF. The LF work fine. The LR lights fine but it does fire the RR
ignitor
ONCE. The RR works fine.

Basically we can get all the burners to light correctly but the RF causes
itself and two other ignitors to fire.

I've looked at the wiring diagram but it doesn't really help as the
reignitor circuitry is in a "black box" anyway. Right know that's where
I'm
guessing the failure is occuring but I don't know under what conditions
the
reignitor circuit asks the ignitor to fire.

Can anyone explain how the reignitor circuit knows when to fire the
ignitor?

Any suggestions, I am pretty experinced with troubleshooting simple
electronic/electrical circuits?

Thanks,
Greg

Kilowatt wrote:
Folks thanks for all the replies.

Jim I posted the same question over in rec.food.equipment so take a
look over there also for possible replies.

Ken Thanks for the pointers although I'm still not clear on how a
ignitor becomes a sensor...but there's got to be a sensor somewhere.
I'll clean em and see what happens. Do you remember what that
circuit/black box cost you?
Greg;
My guess (educated - sort of) is that a high frequency low voltage
signal is applied to all the igniter electrodes whenever *any* control
knob is turned to the on position. This signal allows a comparator
circuit to measure resistance from the probe through the spark gap to
ground. When the resistance falls below a certain value the comparator
circuit signals the high voltage spark circuit to turn on - there is a
separate high frequency and voltage circuit for each burner. The
different frequencies allow the two circuits to operate through a common
electrode without cross interference. Any build-up of conductive
material (eg. burnt on carbon - salt, moisture) on the insulator around
the spark electrode will produce the symptoms you see.
That's the best I can do to explain it.
The black box I originally replaced was potted with a transparent epoxy
and it was easy to see the four separate sections in it.
The replacement 'black box' (kitchenaid) cost me somewhere in the
neighborhood of
$450.00 CDN.
Hope this helps.
Ken.
PS: Penmart (aka Sheldon) was the first person on this (or any other NG) to
earn a place in my kill file.
His childish and in many cases plain-nasty-drivel isn't missed.

Penmart - I have never understood those kinds of responses to
newsgroup questions...maybe it's something personal between you and
Ken, I really don't care, but if you have some knowledge you'd like
to share, I'm listening. As far as Viking QC, I'm inclined to agree
with you...but if it had been wired incorrectly from the factory why
did these symptoms appear after three years of working fine.

Mompegram - thanks for the referal to rec.food.equipment I posted
over there this morning.

Thanks again,
Greg
"Kilowatt" wrote in message
om...
I hope this is the correct group for a query such as this if not
could someone point me in the right direction.

We have a Viking 30in VGIC and when we turn on the right front
burner the right rear and left rear ignitors keep
clacking(reigniting). The RF works fine, ignites the gas, and we get
a nice flame. This symptom only occurs on the RF. The LF work fine.
The LR lights fine but it does fire the RR ignitor ONCE. The RR
works fine.

Basically we can get all the burners to light correctly but the RF
causes itself and two other ignitors to fire.

I've looked at the wiring diagram but it doesn't really help as the
reignitor circuitry is in a "black box" anyway. Right know that's
where I'm guessing the failure is occuring but I don't know under
what conditions the reignitor circuit asks the ignitor to fire.

Can anyone explain how the reignitor circuit knows when to fire the
ignitor?

Any suggestions, I am pretty experinced with troubleshooting simple
electronic/electrical circuits?

Thanks,
Greg


--
http://www.rupert.net/~solar
Return address supplied by 'spammotel'
http://www.spammotel.com

"Ken Davey" fakes:
My guess (educated - sort of) is that a high frequency low voltage
signal is applied to all the igniter electrodes whenever *any* control
knob is turned to the on position. This signal allows a comparator
circuit to measure resistance from the probe through the spark gap to
ground. When the resistance falls below a certain value the comparator
circuit signals the high voltage spark circuit to turn on - there is a
separate high frequency and voltage circuit for each burner. The
different frequencies allow the two circuits to operate through a common
electrode without cross interference. Any build-up of conductive
material (eg. burnt on carbon - salt, moisture) on the insulator around
the spark electrode will produce the symptoms you see.
That's the best I can do to explain it.
The black box I originally replaced was potted with a transparent epoxy
and it was easy to see the four separate sections in it.
The replacement 'black box' (kitchenaid) cost me somewhere in the
neighborhood of
$450.00 CDN.
Hope this helps.
Ken.

Nothing you said is true, NOTHING!

PS: Penmart (aka Sheldon) was the first person on this (or any other NG) to
earn a place in my kill file.

And you will stay dumb.


---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =---
---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =---
Sheldon
````````````
"Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."

Ken,
Thanks for taking the time to write that explanation. It makes perfect sense
to me.

That's a bummer abt the price...Ouch!

I can see why it's potted due to the temps and possible vibration it's
exposed to and of course there's no repairing it, just replace it... oh well

Thanks again,
Greg

"Ken Davey" wrote in message
...
Kilowatt wrote:
Folks thanks for all the replies.

Jim I posted the same question over in rec.food.equipment so take a
look over there also for possible replies.

Ken Thanks for the pointers although I'm still not clear on how a
ignitor becomes a sensor...but there's got to be a sensor somewhere.
I'll clean em and see what happens. Do you remember what that
circuit/black box cost you?
Greg;
My guess (educated - sort of) is that a high frequency low voltage
signal is applied to all the igniter electrodes whenever *any* control
knob is turned to the on position. This signal allows a comparator
circuit to measure resistance from the probe through the spark gap to
ground. When the resistance falls below a certain value the comparator
circuit signals the high voltage spark circuit to turn on - there is a
separate high frequency and voltage circuit for each burner. The
different frequencies allow the two circuits to operate through a common
electrode without cross interference. Any build-up of conductive
material (eg. burnt on carbon - salt, moisture) on the insulator around
the spark electrode will produce the symptoms you see.
That's the best I can do to explain it.
The black box I originally replaced was potted with a transparent epoxy
and it was easy to see the four separate sections in it.
The replacement 'black box' (kitchenaid) cost me somewhere in the
neighborhood of
$450.00 CDN.
Hope this helps.
Ken.
PS: Penmart (aka Sheldon) was the first person on this (or any other NG)
to
earn a place in my kill file.
His childish and in many cases plain-nasty-drivel isn't missed.

Penmart - I have never understood those kinds of responses to
newsgroup questions...maybe it's something personal between you and
Ken, I really don't care, but if you have some knowledge you'd like
to share, I'm listening. As far as Viking QC, I'm inclined to agree
with you...but if it had been wired incorrectly from the factory why
did these symptoms appear after three years of working fine.

Mompegram - thanks for the referal to rec.food.equipment I posted
over there this morning.

Thanks again,
Greg
"Kilowatt" wrote in message
om...
I hope this is the correct group for a query such as this if not
could someone point me in the right direction.

We have a Viking 30in VGIC and when we turn on the right front
burner the right rear and left rear ignitors keep
clacking(reigniting). The RF works fine, ignites the gas, and we get
a nice flame. This symptom only occurs on the RF. The LF work fine.
The LR lights fine but it does fire the RR ignitor ONCE. The RR
works fine.

Basically we can get all the burners to light correctly but the RF
causes itself and two other ignitors to fire.

I've looked at the wiring diagram but it doesn't really help as the
reignitor circuitry is in a "black box" anyway. Right know that's
where I'm guessing the failure is occuring but I don't know under
what conditions the reignitor circuit asks the ignitor to fire.

Can anyone explain how the reignitor circuit knows when to fire the
ignitor?

Any suggestions, I am pretty experinced with troubleshooting simple
electronic/electrical circuits?

Thanks,
Greg


--
http://www.rupert.net/~solar
Return address supplied by 'spammotel'
http://www.spammotel.com

You probably spilled something or had a boilover on the ignitor, clean
it up as one poster suggests below. Sheldon, if the stove was miswired,
wouldn't the original poster would have taken it back or had the
factory fix it under warranty? You are the dumb putz, as you obviously
know nothing about Viking stoves, Viking Ignitors, or electronics. It's
best to keep your pie hole shut when you don't know anything about the
subject at hand. So, clean up that particular burner and sensor then the
stove should work fine. My Viking stove does this exact same thing if
the Ignitor has stuff spilled on it.


:Try this; With a stiff, dry tooth or some such - even onto a wire brush.
:clean the area where the sensor is. This will be the little metal peg
:sticking out of the side of the burner where the spark happens. It also
:doubles as a probe which senses the presence of gas by comparing the
:electrical resistance of gas to air. Any crud in the vicinity of said sensor
:(carbon left from spills) will result in false readings and the attenpt to
:light a burmer that is not turned on.If the cleaning fails to rectify the
:problem replacement (of the black box) is the only cure.*common to all
:brands as far as I know!
:
:Replacement will cost you a bundle (unless you still have a warranty).
:Been there and done that. When the replacement failed (less than two
:momths - made in Taiwan) I unplugged the damn thing and fell back on the
:good old low tech hand-held spark lighter. Satisfied ever since. Regards.
:Ken.

: Piezoelectric igniters don't work that way, you dumb putz... they are as dumb
: as you, they sense nothing.

: That stove is wired incorrectly... but that's to be expected, Viking stove QC
: is shit.


: ---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =---
: ---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =---
: Sheldon
: ````````````
: "Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."
: