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  #1 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
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Default Back again to oysters


Here's an interesting article from the New York Times this morning:

http://tinyurl.com/3g3cv


Dora


limey at toad dot net


  #2 (permalink)   Report Post  
notbob
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

On 2004-03-28, limey > wrote:
>
> Here's an interesting article from the New York Times this morning:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/3g3cv


Thanks for nothing.

Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism, which I have
no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times has to
say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.

nb
  #3 (permalink)   Report Post  
notbob
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

On 2004-03-28, limey > wrote:
>
> Here's an interesting article from the New York Times this morning:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/3g3cv


Thanks for nothing.

Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism, which I have
no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times has to
say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.

nb
  #4 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"notbob" wrote in message
> Thanks for nothing.
>
> Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

which I have
> no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times has

to
> say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
>
> nb


My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's too
long to post in its entirety.

Dora


  #5 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"notbob" wrote in message
> Thanks for nothing.
>
> Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

which I have
> no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times has

to
> say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
>
> nb


My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's too
long to post in its entirety.

Dora




  #6 (permalink)   Report Post  
Curt Nelson
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

> > Thanks for nothing.
> >
> > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> which I have
> > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times

has
> to
> > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> >
> > nb

>
> My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's

too
> long to post in its entirety.



Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell not
going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.

Hasta,
Curt Nelson


  #7 (permalink)   Report Post  
Curt Nelson
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

> > Thanks for nothing.
> >
> > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> which I have
> > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times

has
> to
> > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> >
> > nb

>
> My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's

too
> long to post in its entirety.



Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell not
going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.

Hasta,
Curt Nelson


  #8 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"Curt Nelson" > wrote in message
...
> > > Thanks for nothing.
> > >
> > > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> > which I have
> > > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times

> has
> > to
> > > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> > >
> > > nb

> >
> > My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's

> too
> > long to post in its entirety.

>
>
> Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell

not
> going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
>
> Hasta,
> Curt Nelson


It's long, but here goes:



--------------------------------------------------------------------------

March 28, 2004
CHOICE TABLES
A Raw Bar Renaissance in Boston
By NINA SIMONDS

HE seafood raw bar is a tradition that dates back to Colonial times in
New England, yet this regional specialty never goes out of style. In Boston
there are a number of institutions, like the Union Oyster House and Legal
Sea Foods, that are renowned for their raw bar offerings. And at many of the
city's most stylish restaurants, raw shellfish is a standard item. But in
the past few years, there has been a flurry of raw bar openings. A few fit
the classic formula, while others, run by Japanese chefs, add a new
dimension to the New England raw bar concept.

Summer Shack

Jasper White's name has become synonymous with fine seafood, but he
established himself as a stalwart of the traditional raw bar with the
opening of his latest Summer Shack, in Back Bay. A smaller version of his
restaurants in Cambridge and at the Mohegan Sun Casino in Connecticut, this
restaurant is still large - it seats up to 180. In fact, it may be Boston's
largest oyster bar; in peak season, it serves roughly 6,000 oysters, clams
and shrimp a week.

The Back Bay location is done up with the festive, twinkling lights,
60's-style banquettes and casual, seafood-in-the rough atmosphere that have
become trademark Summer Shack décor. But it's serious business; as you
enter, you see two young chefs shucking oysters and clams as fast as the
orders come in. Right behind them, outlined in nine antique refrigerator
windows, are rows of glistening stone crab claws, cooked lobsters, shrimp
and bag upon burlap bag of raw oysters and clams.

After 25 years of working with seafood, Mr. White has perfected the
art of keeping raw oysters and clams juicy and fresh in this massive
custom-built refrigerator. The oysters, in particular, are succulent.

The Summer Shack offers 10 varieties of oysters, which vary from day
to day. My friend and I ordered a tasting of all 10; they were promptly
delivered on a bed of shaved ice with cups of cocktail sauce, wasabi and
pickled ginger, and a mignonette sauce of chopped shallots, black pepper and
champagne vinegar. Among the most popular are Island Creek, Wellfleet and
Beau Soleil from Canada. Alongside the platter was a white cashier slip that
served as a guide. Each oyster had a distinct flavor, and all were juicy and
delicious. A colorful salad of red beets, watercress and endive sprinkled
with sharp blue cheese and a tangy dressing rounded out my meal. A glass of
slightly fruity Guy Saget Sancerre, $7.75 a glass, complemented the oysters.

My dining partner ordered the cherrystone seviche, in which chopped
bits of slightly chewy but tasty fresh clams were tossed with a lovely
cilantro dressing. Raw littlenecks were plump and briny fresh. A side order
of flash-cooked broccoli rabe with garlic and hot pepper and steamed jasmine
rice made a satisifying meal. For dessert, we split a warm pear, apple and
pecan crisp.

The eclectic menu also offers grilled seafood, crispy-fried seafood
baskets accompanied by coleslaw and French fries, some simple meat and
chicken dishes, and assorted sandwiches. The wine and beer list is small but
selective. Inventive cocktails are in keeping with the laid-back atmosphere.

Oishii Sushi Bar

Ting Yen has been preparing sushi and sashimi for close to 20 years,
and a visit to his tiny, slightly raucous sushi bar in Chestnut Hill, about
20 minutes from the center of Boston, confirms the skill of a master.
Customers line up to grab the 12 seats in the micro-eatery. (A sister
restaurant in Sudbury is slightly larger.) The line was out the door even on
a frigid January evening. The handsome natural-wood raw bar with a glass
window containing pristine fillets of fish was almost covered by the flow of
beautiful platters of freshly prepared sushi. At peak times, four sushi
chefs (Mr. Yen among them) work at top speed.

While Oishii's six-page menu may represent the raw bar in the Japanese
tradition, the diverse selection (over 36 types of sushi, handrolls and maki
rolls on one page alone) are true to the New England tradition: ocean-fresh
seafood prepared to order. Don't be intimidated by the numerous choices; you
can ask the friendly, though slightly frantic waiters for advice.

We started with a selection of sashimi and sushi. Thin slices of baby
hamachi (yellowtail) dotted with hot pepper and spicy radish were fresh,
succulently tender and spicy. Spicy toro gunkan (No. 19), nori-wrapped sushi
liberally topped with chopped pieces of fatty tuna, was seasoned with a
spicy mayonnaise and crispy bits. It was some of the best I've ever tasted.
Torched hamachi rolls (No. 35) were inside-out sushi made of slices of
yellowtail filled with cucumber, caviar and seasoned rice, then garnished
with black tobiko (flying fish) roe and seared by a kitchen-torch to partly
cook the fish. My dining partner and I savored each piece of the roll.

One of Mr. Yen's recent creations, the kinsan sake, was composed of
salmon slices seasoned with truffle oil, chives, toasted sesame seeds and a
lemony yudzu wasabi mustard, with thin slices of truffle topped with caviar
and gold flakes. It sounded a bit busy but, once delivered, was a work of
art and totally delectable. One of the most unusual types of sushi was the
white tiger maki - white seaweed wrapped around a filling of rice, sesame
seeds, tuna, tobiko, cucumber and avocado. Shrimp and vegetable tempura was
impeccably fried, crisp and light.

Remarkably inventive, Ting Yen periodically creates different types of
sushi and sashimi. He also likes to get suggestions from his customers and
then list them under Customer Creations on the menu. Oishii has just
procured a liquor license; there is also a selection of juices, sodas and
green tea. Prices are extremely reasonable and the sushi portions are
generous. Although traditional etiquette dictates that sushi pieces be eaten
in one bite, you might have to down his in two.

Uni at Clio

Two years ago, after earning praise for his French-influenced food at
the formidable Clio restaurant, Ken Oringer decided to create an intimate
sashimi lounge in the small sunken room in his restaurant in the Eliot Suite
Hotel on Commonwealth. Faux leopard carpeting complemented by black wooden
tables and chairs covered in olive velvet give the room a lively, yet
elegant cachet. The black marble and wood-paneled raw bar takes center stage
as the gorgeously plated dishes emerge.

Mr. Oringer, with the aid of a sous-chef, creates magic as he labors
over each dish. The menu changes daily, as nine seafood purveyors deliver
delicacies from all over the world. The best comes at a steep price.

On a blustery evening in January, my two companions and I started our
meal with a question. Should we put ourselves in the hands of the chef and
do a tasting, as our charming waiter told us many customers do? Or should we
order from the menu?

We decided to do a little of both. The first dish, kumamoto oysters,
was stunning. Fresh raw oysters on the half-shell were arranged atop a mound
of ice in a black ceramic bowl, decorated with a pansy flower and fresh
Japanese fruits. Each mollusk was drizzled with ponzu (Japanese citrus mixed
with soy sauce and vinegar), soy sauce and caviar. Even more impressive was
the Santa Barbara sea urchin in a green-apple wasabi foam, held together by
a white nori crust. Anago tempura, freshwater eel in a light batter served
with a velvety shirred egg in its shell and seasoned with green tea salt,
followed. The flavor was extraordinary.

We oohed and aahed with the presentation of each dish. Other favorites
included the fish taco (a choice pick of the evening) - fried miniature
wafer-thin taco shells filled with grilled halibut, avocado cream and tomato
salsa; crunchy Maine lobster with spicy Singapore black pepper sauce; and
lobster sashimi with a fresh jalapeño-cilantro dressing. The portions,
however, are not large here, so be prepared to order a number of dishes.

Six types of sake have been carefully selected, but are expensive. We
liked the fragrant, light house brand ($5 for a cup). The two desserts of
citrus soup and hot chocolate beignet (fried doughnut with a creamy
chocolate interior) were superb, served by the knowledgeable and attentive
staff.

Oga's Japanese Cuisine

You would hardly expect one of the sleekest and most fashionable raw
bar/Japanese restaurants in Boston to be in a strip mall in suburban Natick,
about a 30-minute drive from the center, but such is the case with Oga. This
extraordinary find, which opened two years ago, has earned a devoted
clientele for Toru Oga, the owner and chef.

From the moment you walk in, Oga seduces with its stylish contemporary
décor with Japanese overtones. Stainless steel-topped tables are separated
from the marble and wood sushi bar by a glass partition decorated with poles
of bamboo. There are also several private booths and one large
Japanese-style sunken table room. On most nights, the charismatic Mr. Oga
can be seen deftly rolling some of his imaginative sushi creations. His
cooking reflects a marriage of traditional Japanese dishes with
East-meets-West specialties.

My husband, another couple and I started the meal with two soups.
Oga's clam chowder (described on the menu as "New England traditional
chowder meets Japanese taste'') was velvety smooth, seasoned with white,
saikyo-miso paste. Japanese bouillabaisse called dobin mushi was generously
studded with morsels of seafood in a clear dashi broth. Usuzukuri sushi,
paper-thin slices of fluke, were beautifully arranged, fanlike, on a plate
and served with a ponzu sauce.

Hamachi suzukuri, thinly sliced yellowtail dotted with a dollop of
toasted sesame oil and red chili paste, was delicious. All of the sushi
offerings highlighted the sweet and occasionally briny flavors of fresh, raw
seafood.

On a tip from our helpful waiter, we ordered hamachi kama, which is
not on the menu but is usually available. Yellowtail cheeks and the neck are
roasted to a flaky tenderness. One of my dining partners dove into the meat
with his chopsticks and skillfully cleaned it to the bones. Tempura was
ethereal, crisp and grease-free.

Oga offers an impressive selection of sake and beer and a small but
fine wine list.

B & G Oysters Ltd.

Barbara Lynch, chef, and her partner-manager, Garrett Harker, have
opened a charming oyster bar and a butcher shop and wine bar simultaneously
in neighboring brownstones in Boston's South End.

B & G Oysters has been an immediate success, and the formula is fairly
simple: a great choice of pristinely fresh, raw oysters (on the day we went
there were around 12 varieties) and a limited menu of classic dishes like
Maine lobster roll, a standard B.L.T. plus a variation with lobster, and
fish and chips. There are also some unusual items like the spicy salty
shrimp and baked scrod with black truffle crust.

The place has a cozy, upscale diner-chic feel with its open stainless
steel kitchen. It seats just 36 people, and at dinnertime there can be quite
a wait; lunch was relaxed. The staff was friendly and helpful.

Our dining experience, however, was a bit hit-or-miss. Raw oysters
were terrific and juicy, while the lobster bisque was dark, heavy and rather
unpleasant. A salad of roasted pear (delicately crystallized) and goat
cheese garnished with toasted hazelnuts and fried onion rings was
phenomenal, as was seared halibut with salsify purée and spinach. We were
disappointed by the rouille with the mussels, expecting it to be garlicky
and spicy. Instead it was sweet and red peppery.

Desserts, especially the butterscotch pudding and chocolate devil's
cake, were excellent. The selective, reasonably priced wine list is heavily
French.

Restaurant Information

All these restaurants accept major credit cards; all are nonsmoking.
Only three take reservations (see below). Prices are for dinner for two with
wine or sake.

Summer Shack, 50 Dalton Street, Boston; (617) 867-9955. Lunch
weekdays; brunch weekends. Light fare ($3 per item) at the bar from 4 to
6:30 p.m. daily. Late-night menu and raw bar: Thursday, Friday and Saturday,
11 p.m. to 1 a.m. Takes reservations. $50 to $60.

Oga's Japanese Cuisine, 915 Worcester Road (Route 9), Natick; (508)
653-4338. Lunch and dinner daily. Takes reservations. $100 and up.

Oishii Sushi Bar, 612 Hammond Street (off Boylston), Chestnut Hill;
(617) 277-7888. Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Friday; Saturday and Sunday open
from 1 p.m. $80 to $90.

Uni at Clio, Eliot Suite Hotel, 370A Commonwealth Avenue
(Massachusetts Avenue); (617) 536-7200. Dinner Tuesday to Sunday. $120 and
up.

B & G Oysters Ltd., 550 Tremont Street, Boston; (617) 423-0550. Lunch
and dinner, Monday to Friday; Saturday and Sunday 2 to 11 p.m. Takes
reservations for four or more. $90 to $100.


NINA SIMONDS is the author of "Spices of Life," to be published in
January (Knopf).













  #9 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"Curt Nelson" > wrote in message
...
> > > Thanks for nothing.
> > >
> > > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> > which I have
> > > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times

> has
> > to
> > > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> > >
> > > nb

> >
> > My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's

> too
> > long to post in its entirety.

>
>
> Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell

not
> going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
>
> Hasta,
> Curt Nelson


It's long, but here goes:



--------------------------------------------------------------------------

March 28, 2004
CHOICE TABLES
A Raw Bar Renaissance in Boston
By NINA SIMONDS

HE seafood raw bar is a tradition that dates back to Colonial times in
New England, yet this regional specialty never goes out of style. In Boston
there are a number of institutions, like the Union Oyster House and Legal
Sea Foods, that are renowned for their raw bar offerings. And at many of the
city's most stylish restaurants, raw shellfish is a standard item. But in
the past few years, there has been a flurry of raw bar openings. A few fit
the classic formula, while others, run by Japanese chefs, add a new
dimension to the New England raw bar concept.

Summer Shack

Jasper White's name has become synonymous with fine seafood, but he
established himself as a stalwart of the traditional raw bar with the
opening of his latest Summer Shack, in Back Bay. A smaller version of his
restaurants in Cambridge and at the Mohegan Sun Casino in Connecticut, this
restaurant is still large - it seats up to 180. In fact, it may be Boston's
largest oyster bar; in peak season, it serves roughly 6,000 oysters, clams
and shrimp a week.

The Back Bay location is done up with the festive, twinkling lights,
60's-style banquettes and casual, seafood-in-the rough atmosphere that have
become trademark Summer Shack décor. But it's serious business; as you
enter, you see two young chefs shucking oysters and clams as fast as the
orders come in. Right behind them, outlined in nine antique refrigerator
windows, are rows of glistening stone crab claws, cooked lobsters, shrimp
and bag upon burlap bag of raw oysters and clams.

After 25 years of working with seafood, Mr. White has perfected the
art of keeping raw oysters and clams juicy and fresh in this massive
custom-built refrigerator. The oysters, in particular, are succulent.

The Summer Shack offers 10 varieties of oysters, which vary from day
to day. My friend and I ordered a tasting of all 10; they were promptly
delivered on a bed of shaved ice with cups of cocktail sauce, wasabi and
pickled ginger, and a mignonette sauce of chopped shallots, black pepper and
champagne vinegar. Among the most popular are Island Creek, Wellfleet and
Beau Soleil from Canada. Alongside the platter was a white cashier slip that
served as a guide. Each oyster had a distinct flavor, and all were juicy and
delicious. A colorful salad of red beets, watercress and endive sprinkled
with sharp blue cheese and a tangy dressing rounded out my meal. A glass of
slightly fruity Guy Saget Sancerre, $7.75 a glass, complemented the oysters.

My dining partner ordered the cherrystone seviche, in which chopped
bits of slightly chewy but tasty fresh clams were tossed with a lovely
cilantro dressing. Raw littlenecks were plump and briny fresh. A side order
of flash-cooked broccoli rabe with garlic and hot pepper and steamed jasmine
rice made a satisifying meal. For dessert, we split a warm pear, apple and
pecan crisp.

The eclectic menu also offers grilled seafood, crispy-fried seafood
baskets accompanied by coleslaw and French fries, some simple meat and
chicken dishes, and assorted sandwiches. The wine and beer list is small but
selective. Inventive cocktails are in keeping with the laid-back atmosphere.

Oishii Sushi Bar

Ting Yen has been preparing sushi and sashimi for close to 20 years,
and a visit to his tiny, slightly raucous sushi bar in Chestnut Hill, about
20 minutes from the center of Boston, confirms the skill of a master.
Customers line up to grab the 12 seats in the micro-eatery. (A sister
restaurant in Sudbury is slightly larger.) The line was out the door even on
a frigid January evening. The handsome natural-wood raw bar with a glass
window containing pristine fillets of fish was almost covered by the flow of
beautiful platters of freshly prepared sushi. At peak times, four sushi
chefs (Mr. Yen among them) work at top speed.

While Oishii's six-page menu may represent the raw bar in the Japanese
tradition, the diverse selection (over 36 types of sushi, handrolls and maki
rolls on one page alone) are true to the New England tradition: ocean-fresh
seafood prepared to order. Don't be intimidated by the numerous choices; you
can ask the friendly, though slightly frantic waiters for advice.

We started with a selection of sashimi and sushi. Thin slices of baby
hamachi (yellowtail) dotted with hot pepper and spicy radish were fresh,
succulently tender and spicy. Spicy toro gunkan (No. 19), nori-wrapped sushi
liberally topped with chopped pieces of fatty tuna, was seasoned with a
spicy mayonnaise and crispy bits. It was some of the best I've ever tasted.
Torched hamachi rolls (No. 35) were inside-out sushi made of slices of
yellowtail filled with cucumber, caviar and seasoned rice, then garnished
with black tobiko (flying fish) roe and seared by a kitchen-torch to partly
cook the fish. My dining partner and I savored each piece of the roll.

One of Mr. Yen's recent creations, the kinsan sake, was composed of
salmon slices seasoned with truffle oil, chives, toasted sesame seeds and a
lemony yudzu wasabi mustard, with thin slices of truffle topped with caviar
and gold flakes. It sounded a bit busy but, once delivered, was a work of
art and totally delectable. One of the most unusual types of sushi was the
white tiger maki - white seaweed wrapped around a filling of rice, sesame
seeds, tuna, tobiko, cucumber and avocado. Shrimp and vegetable tempura was
impeccably fried, crisp and light.

Remarkably inventive, Ting Yen periodically creates different types of
sushi and sashimi. He also likes to get suggestions from his customers and
then list them under Customer Creations on the menu. Oishii has just
procured a liquor license; there is also a selection of juices, sodas and
green tea. Prices are extremely reasonable and the sushi portions are
generous. Although traditional etiquette dictates that sushi pieces be eaten
in one bite, you might have to down his in two.

Uni at Clio

Two years ago, after earning praise for his French-influenced food at
the formidable Clio restaurant, Ken Oringer decided to create an intimate
sashimi lounge in the small sunken room in his restaurant in the Eliot Suite
Hotel on Commonwealth. Faux leopard carpeting complemented by black wooden
tables and chairs covered in olive velvet give the room a lively, yet
elegant cachet. The black marble and wood-paneled raw bar takes center stage
as the gorgeously plated dishes emerge.

Mr. Oringer, with the aid of a sous-chef, creates magic as he labors
over each dish. The menu changes daily, as nine seafood purveyors deliver
delicacies from all over the world. The best comes at a steep price.

On a blustery evening in January, my two companions and I started our
meal with a question. Should we put ourselves in the hands of the chef and
do a tasting, as our charming waiter told us many customers do? Or should we
order from the menu?

We decided to do a little of both. The first dish, kumamoto oysters,
was stunning. Fresh raw oysters on the half-shell were arranged atop a mound
of ice in a black ceramic bowl, decorated with a pansy flower and fresh
Japanese fruits. Each mollusk was drizzled with ponzu (Japanese citrus mixed
with soy sauce and vinegar), soy sauce and caviar. Even more impressive was
the Santa Barbara sea urchin in a green-apple wasabi foam, held together by
a white nori crust. Anago tempura, freshwater eel in a light batter served
with a velvety shirred egg in its shell and seasoned with green tea salt,
followed. The flavor was extraordinary.

We oohed and aahed with the presentation of each dish. Other favorites
included the fish taco (a choice pick of the evening) - fried miniature
wafer-thin taco shells filled with grilled halibut, avocado cream and tomato
salsa; crunchy Maine lobster with spicy Singapore black pepper sauce; and
lobster sashimi with a fresh jalapeño-cilantro dressing. The portions,
however, are not large here, so be prepared to order a number of dishes.

Six types of sake have been carefully selected, but are expensive. We
liked the fragrant, light house brand ($5 for a cup). The two desserts of
citrus soup and hot chocolate beignet (fried doughnut with a creamy
chocolate interior) were superb, served by the knowledgeable and attentive
staff.

Oga's Japanese Cuisine

You would hardly expect one of the sleekest and most fashionable raw
bar/Japanese restaurants in Boston to be in a strip mall in suburban Natick,
about a 30-minute drive from the center, but such is the case with Oga. This
extraordinary find, which opened two years ago, has earned a devoted
clientele for Toru Oga, the owner and chef.

From the moment you walk in, Oga seduces with its stylish contemporary
décor with Japanese overtones. Stainless steel-topped tables are separated
from the marble and wood sushi bar by a glass partition decorated with poles
of bamboo. There are also several private booths and one large
Japanese-style sunken table room. On most nights, the charismatic Mr. Oga
can be seen deftly rolling some of his imaginative sushi creations. His
cooking reflects a marriage of traditional Japanese dishes with
East-meets-West specialties.

My husband, another couple and I started the meal with two soups.
Oga's clam chowder (described on the menu as "New England traditional
chowder meets Japanese taste'') was velvety smooth, seasoned with white,
saikyo-miso paste. Japanese bouillabaisse called dobin mushi was generously
studded with morsels of seafood in a clear dashi broth. Usuzukuri sushi,
paper-thin slices of fluke, were beautifully arranged, fanlike, on a plate
and served with a ponzu sauce.

Hamachi suzukuri, thinly sliced yellowtail dotted with a dollop of
toasted sesame oil and red chili paste, was delicious. All of the sushi
offerings highlighted the sweet and occasionally briny flavors of fresh, raw
seafood.

On a tip from our helpful waiter, we ordered hamachi kama, which is
not on the menu but is usually available. Yellowtail cheeks and the neck are
roasted to a flaky tenderness. One of my dining partners dove into the meat
with his chopsticks and skillfully cleaned it to the bones. Tempura was
ethereal, crisp and grease-free.

Oga offers an impressive selection of sake and beer and a small but
fine wine list.

B & G Oysters Ltd.

Barbara Lynch, chef, and her partner-manager, Garrett Harker, have
opened a charming oyster bar and a butcher shop and wine bar simultaneously
in neighboring brownstones in Boston's South End.

B & G Oysters has been an immediate success, and the formula is fairly
simple: a great choice of pristinely fresh, raw oysters (on the day we went
there were around 12 varieties) and a limited menu of classic dishes like
Maine lobster roll, a standard B.L.T. plus a variation with lobster, and
fish and chips. There are also some unusual items like the spicy salty
shrimp and baked scrod with black truffle crust.

The place has a cozy, upscale diner-chic feel with its open stainless
steel kitchen. It seats just 36 people, and at dinnertime there can be quite
a wait; lunch was relaxed. The staff was friendly and helpful.

Our dining experience, however, was a bit hit-or-miss. Raw oysters
were terrific and juicy, while the lobster bisque was dark, heavy and rather
unpleasant. A salad of roasted pear (delicately crystallized) and goat
cheese garnished with toasted hazelnuts and fried onion rings was
phenomenal, as was seared halibut with salsify purée and spinach. We were
disappointed by the rouille with the mussels, expecting it to be garlicky
and spicy. Instead it was sweet and red peppery.

Desserts, especially the butterscotch pudding and chocolate devil's
cake, were excellent. The selective, reasonably priced wine list is heavily
French.

Restaurant Information

All these restaurants accept major credit cards; all are nonsmoking.
Only three take reservations (see below). Prices are for dinner for two with
wine or sake.

Summer Shack, 50 Dalton Street, Boston; (617) 867-9955. Lunch
weekdays; brunch weekends. Light fare ($3 per item) at the bar from 4 to
6:30 p.m. daily. Late-night menu and raw bar: Thursday, Friday and Saturday,
11 p.m. to 1 a.m. Takes reservations. $50 to $60.

Oga's Japanese Cuisine, 915 Worcester Road (Route 9), Natick; (508)
653-4338. Lunch and dinner daily. Takes reservations. $100 and up.

Oishii Sushi Bar, 612 Hammond Street (off Boylston), Chestnut Hill;
(617) 277-7888. Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Friday; Saturday and Sunday open
from 1 p.m. $80 to $90.

Uni at Clio, Eliot Suite Hotel, 370A Commonwealth Avenue
(Massachusetts Avenue); (617) 536-7200. Dinner Tuesday to Sunday. $120 and
up.

B & G Oysters Ltd., 550 Tremont Street, Boston; (617) 423-0550. Lunch
and dinner, Monday to Friday; Saturday and Sunday 2 to 11 p.m. Takes
reservations for four or more. $90 to $100.


NINA SIMONDS is the author of "Spices of Life," to be published in
January (Knopf).













  #10 (permalink)   Report Post  
Ken Davey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

notbob wrote:
> On 2004-03-28, limey > wrote:
>>
>> Here's an interesting article from the New York Times this morning:
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/3g3cv

>
> Thanks for nothing.
>
> Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,
> which I have no desire to participate in. If you want us to know
> what the NY Times has to say, cut 'n paste the article in your post
> so we can read it.
>
> nb

I don't understand your bitch. I have been registered on the NY Times for
several yers and have never received unsolicited Email from that source.
Your cut and paste advice ignores the fact that this material IS
copyrighted.
If you have a personal dislike for registering at a site just don't do it -
but don't slam another poster for ttying to be helpful.
Regards.
Ken.




  #11 (permalink)   Report Post  
Ken Davey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

notbob wrote:
> On 2004-03-28, limey > wrote:
>>
>> Here's an interesting article from the New York Times this morning:
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/3g3cv

>
> Thanks for nothing.
>
> Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,
> which I have no desire to participate in. If you want us to know
> what the NY Times has to say, cut 'n paste the article in your post
> so we can read it.
>
> nb

I don't understand your bitch. I have been registered on the NY Times for
several yers and have never received unsolicited Email from that source.
Your cut and paste advice ignores the fact that this material IS
copyrighted.
If you have a personal dislike for registering at a site just don't do it -
but don't slam another poster for ttying to be helpful.
Regards.
Ken.


  #12 (permalink)   Report Post  
S.Dunlap
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

"limey" > wrote in message >...
> "notbob" wrote in message
> > Thanks for nothing.
> >
> > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> which I have
> > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times has

> to
> > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> >
> > nb

>
> My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's too
> long to post in its entirety.
>
> Dora


Works fine for me also...no having to log in or register.

Sandi
  #13 (permalink)   Report Post  
S.Dunlap
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

"limey" > wrote in message >...
> "notbob" wrote in message
> > Thanks for nothing.
> >
> > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> which I have
> > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times has

> to
> > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> >
> > nb

>
> My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's too
> long to post in its entirety.
>
> Dora


Works fine for me also...no having to log in or register.

Sandi
  #14 (permalink)   Report Post  
S.Dunlap
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

"Curt Nelson" > wrote in message >...
> > > Thanks for nothing.
> > >
> > > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> which I have
> > > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times

> has
> to
> > > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> > >
> > > nb

> >
> > My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's

> too
> > long to post in its entirety.

>
>
> Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell not
> going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
>
> Hasta,
> Curt Nelson


Well...I read the article. The restuarant reviewer that wrote about
the raw bar - oysters - stated that there were 12 varieties available
but didn't bother to name the beds they came from! To me ...a major
no-no when reviewing oyster bars!

Sandi
  #15 (permalink)   Report Post  
S.Dunlap
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

"Curt Nelson" > wrote in message >...
> > > Thanks for nothing.
> > >
> > > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> which I have
> > > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times

> has
> to
> > > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> > >
> > > nb

> >
> > My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's

> too
> > long to post in its entirety.

>
>
> Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell not
> going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
>
> Hasta,
> Curt Nelson


Well...I read the article. The restuarant reviewer that wrote about
the raw bar - oysters - stated that there were 12 varieties available
but didn't bother to name the beds they came from! To me ...a major
no-no when reviewing oyster bars!

Sandi


  #16 (permalink)   Report Post  
Curt Nelson
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

> > Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell
> not
> > going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
> >
> > Hasta,
> > Curt Nelson

>
> It's long, but here goes:



Thanx!

Hasta,
Curt Nelson


  #17 (permalink)   Report Post  
Curt Nelson
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

> > Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell
> not
> > going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
> >
> > Hasta,
> > Curt Nelson

>
> It's long, but here goes:



Thanx!

Hasta,
Curt Nelson


  #22 (permalink)   Report Post  
Charles Gifford
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"limey" > wrote in message
...
>
> "notbob" wrote in message
> > Thanks for nothing.
> >
> > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> which I have
> > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times

has
> to
> > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> >
> > nb

>
> My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's

too
> long to post in its entirety.
>
> Dora


Dora, don't you know that no good deed will go unpunished?

Charlie


  #23 (permalink)   Report Post  
Charles Gifford
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"limey" > wrote in message
...
>
> "notbob" wrote in message
> > Thanks for nothing.
> >
> > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> which I have
> > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times

has
> to
> > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> >
> > nb

>
> My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's

too
> long to post in its entirety.
>
> Dora


Dora, don't you know that no good deed will go unpunished?

Charlie


  #24 (permalink)   Report Post  
Charles Gifford
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"S.Dunlap" > wrote in message
om...
> "Curt Nelson" > wrote in message

>...
> > > > Thanks for nothing.
> > > >
> > > > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting

mechanism,
> > which I have
> > > > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY

Times
> > has
> > to
> > > > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> > > >
> > > > nb
> > >
> > > My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it -

it's
> > too
> > > long to post in its entirety.

> >
> >
> > Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell

not
> > going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
> >
> > Hasta,
> > Curt Nelson

>
> Well...I read the article. The restuarant reviewer that wrote about
> the raw bar - oysters - stated that there were 12 varieties available
> but didn't bother to name the beds they came from! To me ...a major
> no-no when reviewing oyster bars!
>
> Sandi


Don't forget to blame Dora for the whole mess! ;-)

Charlie


  #25 (permalink)   Report Post  
Charles Gifford
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"S.Dunlap" > wrote in message
om...
> "Curt Nelson" > wrote in message

>...
> > > > Thanks for nothing.
> > > >
> > > > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting

mechanism,
> > which I have
> > > > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY

Times
> > has
> > to
> > > > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> > > >
> > > > nb
> > >
> > > My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it -

it's
> > too
> > > long to post in its entirety.

> >
> >
> > Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell

not
> > going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
> >
> > Hasta,
> > Curt Nelson

>
> Well...I read the article. The restuarant reviewer that wrote about
> the raw bar - oysters - stated that there were 12 varieties available
> but didn't bother to name the beds they came from! To me ...a major
> no-no when reviewing oyster bars!
>
> Sandi


Don't forget to blame Dora for the whole mess! ;-)

Charlie




  #26 (permalink)   Report Post  
Rodney Myrvaagnes
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 07:41:44 GMT, alzelt
> wrote:

>
>
>Rodney Myrvaagnes wrote:
>
>> On 28 Mar 2004 15:47:46 -0800, (S.Dunlap) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>"Curt Nelson" > wrote in message >...
>>>
>>>>>>Thanks for nothing.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,
>>>>
>>>> which I have
>>>>
>>>>>>no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times
>>>>
>>>> has
>>>> to
>>>>
>>>>>>say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>nb
>>>>>
>>>>>My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's
>>>>
>>>> too
>>>>
>>>>>long to post in its entirety.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell not
>>>>going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
>>>>
>>>>Hasta,
>>>>Curt Nelson
>>>
>>>Well...I read the article. The restuarant reviewer that wrote about
>>>the raw bar - oysters - stated that there were 12 varieties available
>>>but didn't bother to name the beds they came from! To me ...a major
>>>no-no when reviewing oyster bars!

>>
>>
>> They probably change from day to day. It would be pointless to list
>> them.
>>

>Possibly, but it would give a clue as to how wide a swath they cut when
>selecting oysters.


I didn't see the review, so I don't know what place it described. If
it was the Oyster Bar in Grand Central, they cover a wide swath
indeed. Most places in NY that have more than 2 or 3 kinds include
some from the west coast.



Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a

"WooWooism lives" Anon grafitto on the base of the Cuttyhunk breakwater light
  #27 (permalink)   Report Post  
Rodney Myrvaagnes
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 07:41:44 GMT, alzelt
> wrote:

>
>
>Rodney Myrvaagnes wrote:
>
>> On 28 Mar 2004 15:47:46 -0800, (S.Dunlap) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>"Curt Nelson" > wrote in message >...
>>>
>>>>>>Thanks for nothing.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,
>>>>
>>>> which I have
>>>>
>>>>>>no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times
>>>>
>>>> has
>>>> to
>>>>
>>>>>>say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>nb
>>>>>
>>>>>My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's
>>>>
>>>> too
>>>>
>>>>>long to post in its entirety.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as hell not
>>>>going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
>>>>
>>>>Hasta,
>>>>Curt Nelson
>>>
>>>Well...I read the article. The restuarant reviewer that wrote about
>>>the raw bar - oysters - stated that there were 12 varieties available
>>>but didn't bother to name the beds they came from! To me ...a major
>>>no-no when reviewing oyster bars!

>>
>>
>> They probably change from day to day. It would be pointless to list
>> them.
>>

>Possibly, but it would give a clue as to how wide a swath they cut when
>selecting oysters.


I didn't see the review, so I don't know what place it described. If
it was the Oyster Bar in Grand Central, they cover a wide swath
indeed. Most places in NY that have more than 2 or 3 kinds include
some from the west coast.



Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a

"WooWooism lives" Anon grafitto on the base of the Cuttyhunk breakwater light
  #28 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"Charles Gifford" wrote in message >
> "S.Dunlap" wrote in message


> > > "Curt Nelson" wrote in message


> > > > > Thanks for nothing.
> > > > > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting

mechanism,which I have
> > > > > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY

> Times
> > > has
> > > to
> > > > > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> > > > >
> > > > > nb
> > > >
> > > > My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it -

> it's
> > > too
> > > > long to post in its entirety.
> > >
> > >
> > > Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as

hell
> not
> > > going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
> > >
> > > Hasta,
> > > Curt Nelson

> >
> > Well...I read the article. The restuarant reviewer that wrote about
> > the raw bar - oysters - stated that there were 12 varieties available
> > but didn't bother to name the beds they came from! To me ...a major
> > no-no when reviewing oyster bars!
> >
> > Sandi

>
> Don't forget to blame Dora for the whole mess! ;-)
>
> Charlie


Well, Charlie, you know the old saying: "Some days it just doesn't pay to
get out of bed". Wow.

Dora



  #29 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"Charles Gifford" wrote in message >
> "S.Dunlap" wrote in message


> > > "Curt Nelson" wrote in message


> > > > > Thanks for nothing.
> > > > > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting

mechanism,which I have
> > > > > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY

> Times
> > > has
> > > to
> > > > > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> > > > >
> > > > > nb
> > > >
> > > > My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it -

> it's
> > > too
> > > > long to post in its entirety.
> > >
> > >
> > > Well that just sucks. I'm always up for oyster news but I'm sure as

hell
> not
> > > going to "join" the NY Times to read about them.
> > >
> > > Hasta,
> > > Curt Nelson

> >
> > Well...I read the article. The restuarant reviewer that wrote about
> > the raw bar - oysters - stated that there were 12 varieties available
> > but didn't bother to name the beds they came from! To me ...a major
> > no-no when reviewing oyster bars!
> >
> > Sandi

>
> Don't forget to blame Dora for the whole mess! ;-)
>
> Charlie


Well, Charlie, you know the old saying: "Some days it just doesn't pay to
get out of bed". Wow.

Dora



  #30 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"Charles Gifford" > wrote in message
ink.net...
>
> "limey" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > "notbob" wrote in message
> > > Thanks for nothing.
> > >
> > > Your link dumps us to yet another email address harvesting mechanism,

> > which I have
> > > no desire to participate in. If you want us to know what the NY Times

> has
> > to
> > > say, cut 'n paste the article in your post so we can read it.
> > >
> > > nb

> >
> > My apologies. The link works fine at my end. Just disregard it - it's

> too
> > long to post in its entirety.
> >
> > Dora

>
> Dora, don't you know that no good deed will go unpunished?
>
> Charlie


I was just trying to get certain unnamed people to enjoy oysters!
(big grin).




  #33 (permalink)   Report Post  
Ariane Jenkins
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 15:19:14 -0500, limey > wrote:

> I was just trying to get certain unnamed people to enjoy oysters!
> (big grin).


Aw, go on... Name names, you know you want to! <g>


Ariane, who will get a chance to try raw oysters again on a trip to
New Orleans in a couple months
  #34 (permalink)   Report Post  
Ariane Jenkins
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 15:19:14 -0500, limey > wrote:

> I was just trying to get certain unnamed people to enjoy oysters!
> (big grin).


Aw, go on... Name names, you know you want to! <g>


Ariane, who will get a chance to try raw oysters again on a trip to
New Orleans in a couple months
  #35 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"Ariane Jenkins" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 15:19:14 -0500, limey > wrote:
>
> > I was just trying to get certain unnamed people to enjoy oysters!
> > (big grin).

>
> Aw, go on... Name names, you know you want to! <g>
>
>
> Ariane, who will get a chance to try raw oysters again on a trip to
> New Orleans in a couple months


Shoot, Ariane - I'm still trying to be brave enough to try sushi! I hope
you enjoy your Big Easy trip.

Dora




  #36 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"Ariane Jenkins" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 15:19:14 -0500, limey > wrote:
>
> > I was just trying to get certain unnamed people to enjoy oysters!
> > (big grin).

>
> Aw, go on... Name names, you know you want to! <g>
>
>
> Ariane, who will get a chance to try raw oysters again on a trip to
> New Orleans in a couple months


Shoot, Ariane - I'm still trying to be brave enough to try sushi! I hope
you enjoy your Big Easy trip.

Dora


  #37 (permalink)   Report Post  
Ariane Jenkins
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 17:15:36 -0500, limey > wrote:
>
> Shoot, Ariane - I'm still trying to be brave enough to try sushi! I hope
> you enjoy your Big Easy trip.


Thanks, Dora! LOL, if you eat raw oysters, sushi should hold no
fears for you. I look forward to trying lots of things when we go
to New Orleans...neither of us have ever been there and it looks like
fun.

Ariane
  #38 (permalink)   Report Post  
limey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters


"Ariane Jenkins" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 17:15:36 -0500, limey > wrote:
> >
> > Shoot, Ariane - I'm still trying to be brave enough to try sushi! I

hope
> > you enjoy your Big Easy trip.

>
> Thanks, Dora! LOL, if you eat raw oysters, sushi should hold no
> fears for you. I look forward to trying lots of things when we go
> to New Orleans...neither of us have ever been there and it looks like
> fun.
>
> Ariane


I didn't have the courage to try crayfish/crawfish/crawdads when I was
there - you just break off the heads and suck on the little buggers! Do
have coffee and a beignet at Café du Monde - that's your initiation.

Dora


  #39 (permalink)   Report Post  
Ariane Jenkins
 
Posts: n/a
Default Back again to oysters

On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 19:21:26 -0500, limey > wrote:
>
> I didn't have the courage to try crayfish/crawfish/crawdads when I was
> there - you just break off the heads and suck on the little buggers! Do
> have coffee and a beignet at Café du Monde - that's your initiation.


I guarantee we'll try the beignets! Crawfish will be in season
when we go, and I'm curious about those, too. They look sort of
intimidating to eat, like giant bugs. I get the impression one has to
order several pounds of them in order to come up with enough meat for
a meal!

Ariane
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