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Rick & Cyndi wrote:
Ummm, sorry guys, me too... DON'T use Lemon Oil on ANY of the surfaces (lemon oil has a tendency to dry out wood rather than protect it. Lemon oil does to your wood as Armorall {sp?} does to your car's surfaces - looks great initially and seemingly has this slick, moisturized feel to it but what it does is dries out the material's surface underneath it's shiny coating. So does water. How do you think wood gets warped? |
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Duh'Wayne BoatBubba writes:
BTW, why don't you have that chest of yours professionally cleaned... snip Hey, that's my job. ![]() ---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =--- ---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =--- Sheldon ```````````` "Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation." |
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"Rick & Cyndi" wrote in message news:Wigyb.255724$mZ5.1892567@attbi_s54... snip Shellac and varnish - you betcha. We looked at a house for sale a couple of years ago where that plus replacing subflooring had to be done. Interesting story. The previous owner had a few eccentricities (?) and basically decided that rather than let her farm animals live outside or in barns... they should join her in her practically new, beautiful, 1/4 of a million $$ home - INSIDE. Oh my gosh! The smells, in the dead of winter, without heat and 12" of snow outside, floors swept and cabinetry and carpet removed... STILL ripped out your sinuses!!! uuuuuuugggggggggggg!! It was yucky smelling. She had pigs (I don't believe that they were the pot-bellied variety, either) and chickens and maybe ducks living IN the house with her but decided to draw the line where the horses were concerned - they stayed in her 3-car garage. shaking head to rid the brain of those smells... -- Cyndi Obviously not an advanced case--I have been in a 3-bedroom house where the owner allowed the horses to have one bedroom. I've been in expensive houses where it was necessary to pour the KillOdor down the heater vents because the animals had--well you can imagine. Or houses where soaking diapers, lots of dog waste and crawling babies all occupied the carpeting at the same time. And don't make any assumptions about how the employees looked at work, their education and employment level, their race, the part of the country or part of the city in which they lived, because you would be wrong. Janet |
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"Sheryl Rosen" wrote in message snipped How do I de-stink this lovely piece of furniture so my clothes don't come out of it smelling like stale tobacco and old wood? Is there something I can put into the drawers to absorb odors before the clothes go in? Some type of spray to use on it? Some way to clean it? Any and all ideas are welcome. Thanks. Sheryl, I had a new dresser whose drawers had been finished inside with something that had an objectionable odor. I wouldn't store my clothes in them, since they absorbed the smell. I finally got rid of (or at least disguised) the odor by putting bags of pot pourri in them for a while. (Just pick a pot pourri you like!)The offensive smell has never come back. Dora |
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"Sheryl Rosen" wrote in message
... You guys are the Font Of All Knowlege (FOAK), so I thought I'd ask here, maybe someone has experience with antiques. In a nutshell: I will be the proud new owner of a 50 year old solid maple bureau (chest of drawers, dresser, whatever you call them), starting tomorrow. It spent the first 40 or so years of its existence in the bedroom of people who smoked cigars and cigarettes. It's still in that same room today, except the owners stopped smoking around 1990. This piece of furniture has tremendous sentimental value for me, and i do need another chest of drawers in my bedroom, so I definitely need to use it to store clothing. Thing is, I know when I get it over here, I will notice the smell of stale tobacco. How do I de-stink this lovely piece of furniture so my clothes don't come out of it smelling like stale tobacco and old wood? Is there something I can put into the drawers to absorb odors before the clothes go in? Some type of spray to use on it? Some way to clean it? Any and all ideas are welcome. Thanks. I would pull, the drawers out and wash every square inch with a soap that is designed for use on wood. -- Peter Aitken Remove the crap from my email address before using. |
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wrote in message ... Rick & Cyndi wrote: Ummm, sorry guys, me too... DON'T use Lemon Oil on ANY of the surfaces (lemon oil has a tendency to dry out wood rather than protect it. Lemon oil does to your wood as Armorall {sp?} does to your car's surfaces - looks great initially and seemingly has this slick, moisturized feel to it but what it does is dries out the material's surface underneath it's shiny coating. So does water. How do you think wood gets warped? No one is suggesting she leaves the item out in the rain. Additionally Gloria is correct lemon on the insides of the drawers. Thw problemn is with the nicoteen and I dopubt the people used the drawers aa ashtrays. The problem then is with the overall surface which depanding on the finish is probably permiated. A very old trick to take the smoke stains off a smokers kingers is to use a cut lemon. Regardless of the method she chooses to use - sole tr-oiling r refinishing will probably be necessary - this is not a quick fix. Secondly : see below; Dimitri CAUTION: Oil soaked materials may spontaneously ignite.RISK OF FIRE FROM SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION EXISTS WITH THIS PRODUCT. Linseed Oil generates heat as it dries. This heat generated as it dries can cause spontaneous ignition of materials contacted by Linseed Oil. Oily rags or waste and other oily materials can cause spontaneous combustion fires if not handled properly. Immediately after use, and before disposal or storage, you MUST (1) spread out all oily materials outside to dry by flattening them out to their full size in an any spot for 24 hours at temperatures above 40° F, or (2) Wash them thoroughly with water and detergent and rinse. Repeat until you have removed all oil from all cloths, tools, rags, paper, clothing, mops and any other materials contacted during use or as a result of an accidental spill. Make certain all wash and rinse water is disposed of down sink drain. CAUTION! INEDIBLE. NOT TO BE TAKEN INTERNALLY. Contains Linseed Oil. For further information, refer to the Material Safety Data Sheet. FIRST AID - IF SWALLOWED, call your poison control center, hospital emergency room or physician immediately for instructions. IN CASE OF EYE CONTACT, immediately flush with water for at least 15 minutes. If irritation persists, get medical attention. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Manufactured For: ALLPRO® Corporation Brandon, FL 33511 |
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in article , sf at
wrote on 11/30/03 4:21 AM: On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 01:41:07 GMT, Sheryl Rosen wrote: How do I de-stink this lovely piece of furniture so my clothes don't come out of it smelling like stale tobacco and old wood? Is there something I can put into the drawers to absorb odors before the clothes go in? Some type of spray to use on it? Some way to clean it? First of all, do you know for sure that it will impart a cigarette smell to your clothing? Yes. Secondly, have you considered baking soda? I've considered a lot of things. I asked the question to try to skip the trial and error of things that MIGHT work, but DON'T. I know baking soda MIGHT work. But it might not. If there's something better, something that definitely DOES work, why bother with the stuff that doesn't? |
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Sheryl Rosen wrote:
You guys are the Font Of All Knowlege (FOAK), so I thought I'd ask here, maybe someone has experience with antiques. In a nutshell: I will be the proud new owner of a 50 year old solid maple bureau (chest of drawers, dresser, whatever you call them), starting tomorrow. It spent the first 40 or so years of its existence in the bedroom of people who smoked cigars and cigarettes. It's still in that same room today, except the owners stopped smoking around 1990. This piece of furniture has tremendous sentimental value for me, and i do need another chest of drawers in my bedroom, so I definitely need to use it to store clothing. Thing is, I know when I get it over here, I will notice the smell of stale tobacco. How do I de-stink this lovely piece of furniture so my clothes don't come out of it smelling like stale tobacco and old wood? Is there something I can put into the drawers to absorb odors before the clothes go in? Some type of spray to use on it? Some way to clean it? Any and all ideas are welcome. Thanks. Wipe it down (with a not-very-wet cloth) inside and out (back and front etc, every surface) with some vegetable soap, such as Murphy or Bissel. Rinse it the same way, with a not-very-wet cloth and clean water. Wipe it dry. You can also use some good wood polish to clean the finished surfaces; it will at least pick up some of the oily tobacco residue. Is there somewhere sheltered outside you can put it for a while? Remove all the drawers and let it sit somewhere with a good air flow. If not, line the drawers with newspaper and sprinkle baking soda on the paper. Change that every day or so. It might take a while to remove all the odour though. The previous resident of my flat in London was a heavy smoker, so the place stank! But the only piece of furniture I could afford to replace was the mattress, which I dumped. Everything else was washed and aired and I scrubbed the walls, windows, ceiling and carpeting. There was still a slight smell but by about three months it all disappeared. |
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"limey" writes:
Sheryl, I had a new dresser whose drawers had been finished inside with something that had an objectionable odor. I wouldn't store my clothes in them, since they absorbed the smell. I finally got rid of (or at least disguised) the odor by putting bags of pot pourri in them for a while. (Just pick a pot pourri you like!)The offensive smell has never come back. How do you know the odor hasn't returned... you begin with "I *had*", which certainly implys that you no longer have that dresser. Anyway, most new furniture nowadays is made primarilly of partical board and/or plywood covered with a veneer of hardwood. The resins in partical board and plywood will outgas for many months, sometimes years, there is nothing to be done about any eminating offensive odor other than wait... even powerful perfumes won't completely disguise the outgassing odor. Also the finish on new furniture will also outgas for a long time before it fully cures - do not use polish on new furniture for at least 6 months. But Sheryl's chest doesn't have the newness problem, her chest is well matured, and the real deal, not stuffed with resins. Simply remove her drawers and lube all the bearing/glide surfaces a good coat of Kiwi paste shoe polish (neutral shade). Treat all finished surfaces liberally with lemon oil. Leave the dresser disassembled in a well ventilated space for at least a week before using. Do not wash or otherwise wet any wooden furniture lest any offensive odors become more pronounced. Dust inside drawers and unfinished surfaces with a dry cloth, tack rag, and/or vacuum only, do not wet or apply cleaning solutions. ---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =--- ---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =--- Sheldon ```````````` "Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation." |
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Peter Aitken wrote:
"Sheryl Rosen" wrote in message ... You guys are the Font Of All Knowlege (FOAK), so I thought I'd ask here, maybe someone has experience with antiques. I would pull, the drawers out and wash every square inch with a soap that is designed for use on wood. Murphy's Oil Soap. Excellent stuff. Jill |
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In article , "jmcquown"
writes: Peter Aitken wrote: "Sheryl Rosen" wrote in message ... You guys are the Font Of All Knowlege (FOAK), so I thought I'd ask here, maybe someone has experience with antiques. I would pull, the drawers out and wash every square inch with a soap that is designed for use on wood. Murphy's Oil Soap. Excellent stuff. *Finished* wood surfaces only... the inside surfaces of older furniture will be of raw wood (untreated) and should never be wet with anything. ---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =--- ---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =--- Sheldon ```````````` "Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation." |
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jmcquown wrote:
Murphy's Oil Soap. Excellent stuff. Well, so long as we're on the subject ... I washed my kitchen cabinets, but what I cannot remove are the fingerprint smudges around the doorknobs. Obviously I don't want to scrub, of course that would take them off, along with the finish. I used Murphy's Oil Soap. I'm planning to replace the knobs, so I am not adverse to removing the knobs to make it easier to clean. Anyone know what would remove what I would assume are oil smudges? You only see them from an angle, it's not what you'd think of as a dirty look, but it bugs me. Also, after washing, I would like to rub them with Scott's Liquid Gold for moisture. Good idea? Bad idea? They're looking a little dry. nancy |
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PENMART01 wrote:
In article , "jmcquown" writes: Peter Aitken wrote: "Sheryl Rosen" wrote in message ... You guys are the Font Of All Knowlege (FOAK), so I thought I'd ask here, maybe someone has experience with antiques. I would pull, the drawers out and wash every square inch with a soap that is designed for use on wood. Murphy's Oil Soap. Excellent stuff. *Finished* wood surfaces only... the inside surfaces of older furniture will be of raw wood (untreated) and should never be wet with anything. True. And as I mentioned before, if the drawers were fitted correctly, chances are smoke did not permeate the inside of the dresser. I concur with your suggestion about using plain boot polish to keep the drawer glides free-sliding. However, the antique dresser I have doesn't actually have "glides"; the dovetail cuts slide nicely into the grooves in the dresser without any prompting. This dresser is probably (I'm guessing, since it belonged to my grandmother) close to 80 years old. Jill |