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Okay, I never grew beans before. Just thought it would be
a fun thing to do this year since I suddenly have a small place to grow vegetables. It's been fun. So far; I hope they hang in there (as in not be eaten) until I can get some beans out of the deal. I now get where the Jack and his magical beans story came from. I looked at where I planted them a couple days ago. Maybe that's them (some teensy green weed). I don't know. Two hours later, I do not lie, I looked again and see some weird disturbance in the earth, all these mounds of soils. Damn, did something dig up my beans?? No. I moved a piece of dirt aside and there it was, a bean plant! By the next morning they were an inch high. Freaky!! nancy |
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On Jun 11, 12:34 pm, "Nancy Young" wrote:
Okay, I never grew beans before. Just thought it would be a fun thing to do this year since I suddenly have a small place to grow vegetables. It's been fun. So far; I hope they hang in there (as in not be eaten) until I can get some beans out of the deal. I now get where the Jack and his magical beans story came from. I looked at where I planted them a couple days ago. Maybe that's them (some teensy green weed). I don't know. Two hours later, I do not lie, I looked again and see some weird disturbance in the earth, all these mounds of soils. Damn, did something dig up my beans?? No. I moved a piece of dirt aside and there it was, a bean plant! By the next morning they were an inch high. Freaky!! nancy Yeah, it is fun watching them. If you plant the beans after soaking them for some 12 hours, they will pop out of the ground within a day, if the weather is warm and sunny. Do you have climbers? If not: Make sur eyou get plnety of air between the plants, otherwise a few warm moist days will make the stems start to rot. |
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Cookseasonal wrote:
On Jun 11, 12:34 pm, "Nancy Young" wrote: Two hours later, I do not lie, I looked again and see some weird disturbance in the earth, all these mounds of soils. Damn, did something dig up my beans?? No. I moved a piece of dirt aside and there it was, a bean plant! By the next morning they were an inch high. Freaky!! Yeah, it is fun watching them. If you plant the beans after soaking them for some 12 hours, they will pop out of the ground within a day, if the weather is warm and sunny. Thanks! I don't know why I didn't think of that, I have soaked other seeds. I just followed the directions on the packet. Do you have climbers? If not: Make sur eyou get plnety of air between the plants, otherwise a few warm moist days will make the stems start to rot. Thanks for that tip. I planted them according to directions and now I have to thin the plants. These are the bush type. nancy |
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Do you have climbers? If not: Make sur eyou get plnety of air between the plants, otherwise a few warm moist days will make the stems start to rot. Thanks for that tip. I planted them according to directions and now I have to thin the plants. These are the bush type. I experienced that horror 2 years ago.. lost some 200 plants in one week of night-time rains, cloudy days, and 24deg celcius. in the end I started pulling all the infected plants, and was left with a pathetic looking half-empty field. But then again.. I have never been good at reading the instructions, and just plant so that it 'feels right' ![]() Just came back from 2 weeks project, and am now stuffing myself with sugar snaps, which grew half a meter and each plant carries some 10 pods. Hm.. Stir-fry tonight! J |
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"Nancy Young" ha scritto nel messaggio
. .. Cookseasonal wrote: Do you have climbers? If not: Make sur eyou get plnety of air between the plants, otherwise a few warm moist days will make the stems start to rot. Thanks for that tip. I planted them according to directions and now I have to thin the plants. These are the bush type. I plant my bush beans every 4" each way. Thay form a shade structure that keeps weeds away and they do very well. My old friend George in WV taught me that. The lack of sun made my beans come up, look around and then stall. They want 60°F around the clock or samned close. |
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Cookseasonal wrote:
Do you have climbers? If not: Make sur eyou get plnety of air between the plants, otherwise a few warm moist days will make the stems start to rot. Thanks for that tip. I planted them according to directions and now I have to thin the plants. These are the bush type. I experienced that horror 2 years ago.. lost some 200 plants in one week of night-time rains, cloudy days, and 24deg celcius. in the end I started pulling all the infected plants, and was left with a pathetic looking half-empty field. But then again.. I have never been good at reading the instructions, and just plant so that it 'feels right' ![]() (laugh) You're one of those green thumb people, I have to read the directions and even then my success rate is way low. I would not make a success of farming. Sorry about your crop, that's no laughing matter. I just do it for fun. Just came back from 2 weeks project, and am now stuffing myself with sugar snaps, which grew half a meter and each plant carries some 10 pods. Hm.. Stir-fry tonight! Now that makes it all worth it. I'm already planning to expand my tiny garden next spring and sugar snaps would have a place for sure. nancy |
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Giusi wrote:
"Nancy Young" ha scritto nel messaggio Thanks for that tip. I planted them according to directions and now I have to thin the plants. These are the bush type. I plant my bush beans every 4" each way. Thay form a shade structure that keeps weeds away and they do very well. My old friend George in WV taught me that. I'm planting another row this weekend. The spacing is so close, I believe 6 inches, that I thought How's this going to work? You say even closer, so that's just how it is. The lack of sun made my beans come up, look around and then stall. They want 60°F around the clock or samned close. Yikes, so far I've given them 95. Today it's a balmy 75 ... so far. nancy |
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"Nancy Young" ha scritto nel messaggio
. .. Giusi wrote: The lack of sun made my beans come up, look around and then stall. They want 60°F around the clock or samned close. Yikes, so far I've given them 95. Today it's a balmy 75 ... so far. nancy Misstated: they want 60°F MIN everything over that happily accepted with an appropriate amount of water. |
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On Jun 11, 8:02�am, "Nancy Young" wrote:
Cookseasonal wrote: On Jun 11, 12:34 pm, "Nancy Young" wrote: Two hours later, I do not lie, I looked again and see some weird disturbance in the earth, all these mounds of soils. Damn, did something dig up my beans?? No. �I moved a piece of dirt aside and there it was, a bean plant! �By the next morning they were an inch high. �Freaky!! Yeah, it is fun watching them. If you plant the beans after soaking them for some 12 hours, they will pop out of the ground within a day, if the weather is warm and sunny. Thanks! �I don't know why I didn't think of that, I have soaked other seeds. �I just followed the directions on the packet. Do you have climbers? If not: Make sur eyou get plnety of air between the plants, otherwise a few warm moist days will make the stems start to rot. Thanks for that tip. �I planted them according to directions and now I have to thin the plants. �These are the bush type. Yes, thin them. Actually if each seed is spaced according to directions there's no need to thin, beans typically all germinate so there's really no need to plant extra, and bean seedlings don't transplant well, so it's best to just toss them. At first it may seem that there is too much space between plants but they will grow rapidly to fill in all empty space... and you'll have a larger more robust crop when plants are spaced a bit further apart instead of crowded, in other words you will get more from fewer plants, it's false economy to plant any vegetables close together thinking you'll get more per space, you wont, and it will also be more difficult to harvest and you'll miss a lot of beans on crowded plants. Once they begin to put out beans harvest every day, even twice a day. Beans grow very quickly, so what looks like a 1" long bean in the morning will be ready to pick 24 hours later... pick when 3-4 inches long and no more... you'll have better quality beans and more of them, the more you pick the more the plant will put out... plants are merely trying to reproduce, if you allow the fruits to become too mature so that they go to seed the plant will go into a done-its-job mode and cease further production. Smaller/less mature beans will be much easier to prepare, they wouldn't have developed those pesky strings yet which presents most of the prep labor to remove, the seeds will not have matured either, so very little cooking will be needed... green beans less than 3" can be quickly stir fried... 2" beans can be used raw in salads. Just pinch off the stem (use no knife), always leave the pointy end. During peak production period (about 4 weeks) one packet of seed gives me 10 pounds of young beans every day... you'll need people to share, you'll get tired of eating them. No matter how diligent your harvesting regimen you will still miss a lot. Those 6" beans can be de-strung and sliced into 1" lengths and frozen in zip- locs, they are great in winter stews as they hold up well to long slow cooking. |
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Giusi wrote:
"Nancy Young" ha scritto nel messaggio . .. Giusi wrote: The lack of sun made my beans come up, look around and then stall. They want 60°F around the clock or samned close. Yikes, so far I've given them 95. Today it's a balmy 75 ... so far. Misstated: they want 60°F MIN everything over that happily accepted with an appropriate amount of water. Ooops. Sorry about that, I shouldn't have taken it so literally. What a dummy. nancy |
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Sheldon wrote:
On Jun 11, 8:02�am, "Nancy Young" wrote: Thanks for that tip. �I planted them according to directions and now I have to thin the plants. �These are the bush type. Yes, thin them. Actually if each seed is spaced according to directions there's no need to thin, beans typically all germinate This I noticed. I thought Next time I will only plant one bean, not three, because I don't think one failed to come up. people to share, you'll get tired of eating them. No matter how diligent your harvesting regimen you will still miss a lot. Those 6" beans can be de-strung and sliced into 1" lengths and frozen in zip- locs, they are great in winter stews as they hold up well to long slow cooking. Thanks for all that information, and taking the time to spell it out for me. I appreciate it. So far this has been more fun even than tomatoes. nancy |
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"Nancy Young" ha scritto nel messaggio
... Sheldon wrote: , you'll get tired of eating them. It can happen! I plant a 3 foot by 4 foot of my closely planted beans and will again near to autumn when I plant the winter greens. Even an extra handful of green beans is easily blanched and tossed into a sack for the freezer. I also can if pressed make many green bean dishes because they are my DD's favorite vegetable. They are great as tempura or blanched and used almost raw. Given good sun, they're almost foolproof. nancy |
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On Jun 11, 8:26�am, "Nancy Young" wrote:
Giusi wrote: "Nancy Young" ha scritto nel messaggio Thanks for that tip. �I planted them according to directions and now I have to thin the plants. �These are the bush type. I plant my bush beans every 4" each way. �Thay form a shade structure that keeps weeds away and they do very well. �My old friend George in WV taught me that. I'm planting another row this weekend. �The spacing is so close, I believe 6 inches, that I thought How's this going to work? �You say even closer, so that's just how it is. Eight to ten inches apart in the row is fine but you need more space between rows... plants are not all above ground, they have roots too, the roots need more space than foliage... and you'll need space to walk when you harvest, if you grow beans in rows all jamed together you will have a lesser crop due to root crowding and you'll need to step on plants when harvesting.. if rows are too close you will alos be compressing soil over roots when harvsting, the crop will suffer... leave plenty of space to walk. My garden is now all planted, over many years of gardening I've learned not to crowd plants.... and there are far better methods for controling weeds, crowding is the worst, teh weeds will still grow, right between the plants where you won't notice untll they're well established, and then you'll disturb the bean plant roots when pulling the mature weeds. Crowded plants also shade themselves, space between rows lets light in, vegetable plants don't grow well without full sun. With space between plants it's very easy to weed with shallow hoing/cultivating. My tomato plants are doing well, as you can see I believe in space between plants and my method of weed control works well.. high quality weed block cloth from Lee Vally lasts more than ten years. I leave it down all winter too, just roll it up in spring so I can till and lay it back down again... the extra holes are from previous year's plants, after a while I may use some extra holes to put in other plants, perhaps even flowers: http://i27.tinypic.com/mwsjgw.jpg I have four fruit trees to plant (2 plum, 2 apple), but it's been much too hot to dig holes, maybe today: http://i30.tinypic.com/5cmx6q.jpg In a couple of weeks that will be a lush garden. My beans are in that far corner, just coming up. Some crops work better with bare ground, I may use corrogated cardboard between rows later, I use cardbord for walkways, it simply decomposes and I add new. As you can see I can make my garden a lot larger, but that 2,500 sq ft plot is more than enough for any three families, which is why I already devoted about a third to blueberries... there's a small stream in that depression along the right side, I rarely need to water: http://i31.tinypic.com/2ecoxv9.jpg |
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hehe, planting too close you said?
Just walked into my garden.. Planted a few cabbages, at about 1 foot (30cm) apart.. Two weeks ago before I left they had plenty of space. Now the leaves are pushing against eachother, and summer is still to start. I only did put in 2 rows of 5 plant.. What is your idea: Should I remove every second plant? Or will they eventually 'hang' off to the sides? |
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"Sheldon" ha scritto nel messaggio and there are far better methods for controling weeds, crowding is the worst, teh weeds will still grow, right between the plants where you won't notice untll they're well established, and then you'll disturb the bean plant roots when pulling the mature weeds. My experience varies widely from your conjecture. This method works best for people who aren't growing bushels of anything, but it does work and is considered a very good organic way to grow beans. I also grow tagetes or marigold around most vegetables for insect control. |