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Hello,
I have two questions regarding Thai curry pastes, the first of which is about the texture of the paste itself. I pound them using a large stone mortar and pestle (the kind for sale on thaigrocer.com). I am never sure just how "pastey" the paste should be. It is clearly one entity, but it is textured; it would never be mistaken for, say, a green smooth Jiffy peanutbutter. How smooth should the paste be? Is it alright for there to be some identifiable pieces of inividual ingredients, or is that an indication that I need to pound more before incorporating the next item? The next question is one about mortar and pestle technique. In Su-Mei Yu's book, Cracking the Coconut, she writes, "finally the familiar rhythmic song of an even pounding sang out from the mortar" (page 203 for you following along in the hardcover copy). Never having worked with a Thai chef, I am uncertain as to what this rhythmic song really is. I find that by pounding straight down into the mortar, the paste slides up the sides in about two or three hits, thus making it necessary to scrape more paste down into the center to continue. The only other option would be to pound against the sides, something which Su-Mei Yu warns against doing. With this constant introsion into the actual pounding, it is difficult to have any regular rhythm. Am I doing something wrong, or do I just have a faulty conception of a pounding rhythm? Thanks, Brett |
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Brett Maguire wrote:
Hello, I have two questions regarding Thai curry pastes, the first of which is about the texture of the paste itself. I pound them using a large stone mortar and pestle (the kind for sale on thaigrocer.com). I am never sure just how "pastey" the paste should be. It is clearly one entity, but it is textured; it would never be mistaken for, say, a green smooth Jiffy peanutbutter. How smooth should the paste be? Is it alright for there to be some identifiable pieces of inividual ingredients, or is that an indication that I need to pound more before incorporating the next item? The next question is one about mortar and pestle technique. In Su-Mei Yu's book, Cracking the Coconut, she writes, "finally the familiar rhythmic song of an even pounding sang out from the mortar" (page 203 for you following along in the hardcover copy). Never having worked with a Thai chef, I am uncertain as to what this rhythmic song really is. I find that by pounding straight down into the mortar, the paste slides up the sides in about two or three hits, thus making it necessary to scrape more paste down into the center to continue. The only other option would be to pound against the sides, something which Su-Mei Yu warns against doing. With this constant introsion into the actual pounding, it is difficult to have any regular rhythm. Am I doing something wrong, or do I just have a faulty conception of a pounding rhythm? Thanks, Brett Hi Brett, This isn't a helpful answer to your question, I'm afraid, but an observation of my own: that the shallots-and-garlic phase of the grinding process can be really tricky and frustrating. I have taken to pre-grating these ingredients using a sharp fine grater, then adding and grinding the grated mush into the curry paste as a final step. It cuts down on the dual problems of flying shallot bits and half-smashed but unpulverized flat pieces of garlic / shallot. I used to just slice them finely before adding, but feel that this way works better. Whither authenticity, eh? krnntp |
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KWR wrote:
Brett Maguire wrote: Hello, I have two questions regarding Thai curry pastes, the first of which is about the texture of the paste itself. I pound them using a large stone mortar and pestle (the kind for sale on thaigrocer.com). I am never sure just how "pastey" the paste should be. It is clearly one entity, but it is textured; it would never be mistaken for, say, a green smooth Jiffy peanutbutter. How smooth should the paste be? Is it alright for there to be some identifiable pieces of inividual ingredients, or is that an indication that I need to pound more before incorporating the next item? The next question is one about mortar and pestle technique. In Su-Mei Yu's book, Cracking the Coconut, she writes, "finally the familiar rhythmic song of an even pounding sang out from the mortar" (page 203 for you following along in the hardcover copy). Never having worked with a Thai chef, I am uncertain as to what this rhythmic song really is. I find that by pounding straight down into the mortar, the paste slides up the sides in about two or three hits, thus making it necessary to scrape more paste down into the center to continue. The only other option would be to pound against the sides, something which Su-Mei Yu warns against doing. With this constant introsion into the actual pounding, it is difficult to have any regular rhythm. Am I doing something wrong, or do I just have a faulty conception of a pounding rhythm? Thanks, Brett Hi Brett, This isn't a helpful answer to your question, I'm afraid, but an observation of my own: that the shallots-and-garlic phase of the grinding process can be really tricky and frustrating. I have taken to pre-grating these ingredients using a sharp fine grater, then adding and grinding the grated mush into the curry paste as a final step. It cuts down on the dual problems of flying shallot bits and half-smashed but unpulverized flat pieces of garlic / shallot. I used to just slice them finely before adding, but feel that this way works better. Whither authenticity, eh? krnntp By the way, my grinding technique is a clockwise or counterclockwise rubbing / crushing / rolling motion. Depending on how much the mixture is riding up the sides of the mortar, I will either widen the diameter of my path, or try smooshing it downward using vertical wiping strokes. Sometimes I've resorted to stopping periodically to wipe the admixture back into place with a hand or utensil. Like Brett, I'd be interested to hear anyone's comments on how it is actually *supposed* to be done. I'm a bit skeptical of the "bop - bop - bop" vertical hammer approach which seems to be one philosophical way of approaching a mortar and pestle. A limited amount of striking seems to be useful to fragment and destroy large ingredients, but when it comes to the fine processing of a paste, I feel like I get a lot more return on work when the pestle rarely leaves the grinding surface. Best - krnntp |
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"KWR" wrote in message s.com... [...] This isn't a helpful answer to your question, I'm afraid, but an observation of my own: that the shallots-and-garlic phase of the grinding process can be really tricky and frustrating. I have taken to pre-grating these ingredients using a sharp fine grater, then adding and grinding the grated mush into the curry paste as a final step. It cuts down on the dual problems of flying shallot bits and half-smashed but unpulverized flat pieces of garlic / shallot. I used to just slice them finely before adding, but feel that this way works better. Whither authenticity, eh? Hmm. For me, garlic and shallots are the easy part. I just do vertical pounding, with an occassional grind, until they are mush--no unpulverized pieces left. It just takes time. Peter |
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"KWR" wrote in message s.com... KWR wrote: Brett Maguire wrote: Hello, I have two questions regarding Thai curry pastes, the first of which is about the texture of the paste itself. I pound them using a large stone mortar and pestle (the kind for sale on thaigrocer.com). I am never sure just how "pastey" the paste should be. It is clearly one entity, but it is textured; it would never be mistaken for, say, a green smooth Jiffy peanutbutter. How smooth should the paste be? Is it alright for there to be some identifiable pieces of inividual ingredients, or is that an indication that I need to pound more before incorporating the next item? The next question is one about mortar and pestle technique. In Su-Mei Yu's book, Cracking the Coconut, she writes, "finally the familiar rhythmic song of an even pounding sang out from the mortar" (page 203 for you following along in the hardcover copy). Never having worked with a Thai chef, I am uncertain as to what this rhythmic song really is. I find that by pounding straight down into the mortar, the paste slides up the sides in about two or three hits, thus making it necessary to scrape more paste down into the center to continue. The only other option would be to pound against the sides, something which Su-Mei Yu warns against doing. With this constant introsion into the actual pounding, it is difficult to have any regular rhythm. Am I doing something wrong, or do I just have a faulty conception of a pounding rhythm? Thanks, Brett Hi Brett, This isn't a helpful answer to your question, I'm afraid, but an observation of my own: that the shallots-and-garlic phase of the grinding process can be really tricky and frustrating. I have taken to pre-grating these ingredients using a sharp fine grater, then adding and grinding the grated mush into the curry paste as a final step. It cuts down on the dual problems of flying shallot bits and half-smashed but unpulverized flat pieces of garlic / shallot. I used to just slice them finely before adding, but feel that this way works better. Whither authenticity, eh? krnntp By the way, my grinding technique is a clockwise or counterclockwise rubbing / crushing / rolling motion. Depending on how much the mixture is riding up the sides of the mortar, I will either widen the diameter of my path, or try smooshing it downward using vertical wiping strokes. Sometimes I've resorted to stopping periodically to wipe the admixture back into place with a hand or utensil. Like Brett, I'd be interested to hear anyone's comments on how it is actually *supposed* to be done. I'm a bit skeptical of the "bop - bop - bop" vertical hammer approach which seems to be one philosophical way of approaching a mortar and pestle. A limited amount of striking seems to be useful to fragment and destroy large ingredients, but when it comes to the fine processing of a paste, I feel like I get a lot more return on work when the pestle rarely leaves the grinding surface. The best description I've seen is Kasma's--such details are what make her book so good. For beginner's, she suggests you do the various ingredients separately. She gives suggestions for how to best deal with each type of ingredient. Here's an excerpt, but the whole article has other good info: "In Thailand, ingredients that go into a curry paste are pounded together all at once in the mortar. Often, the softer and wetter ingredients like garlic and shallots are placed in whole as they mash up relatively easily. Coarse salt crystals provide some abrasion to reduce the harder and more fibrous herbs and spices as well as pull their flavors together. The pounding goes on until everything in the mortar is mashed into a paste and is no longer distinguishable. This can take a long time for someone inexperienced in mortar and pestle techniques. If you are a beginner with mortar and pestle, work on one ingredient at a time, starting with the dry spices. They are easily pulverized with a rolling motion of the pestle around the bottom and sides of the mortar while its surface is still dry. Remove them from the mortar before proceeding with the most fibrous of the herbs. Pound one ingredient at a time, a small amount at a time, moving from the hardiest to the softest and wettest. Herbs reduce more quickly when pounded with a sturdy up and down motion; only after their fibers have been adequately crushed does a rolling wrist motion contribute to their reduction. When all the ingredients have been reduced to powder or paste, combine them and pound together until they are well blended and no longer distinguishable. This process takes less time overall and, for the less experienced, produces a paste that is more uniform." http://www.thaifoodandtravel.com/features/cpaste.html Peter |
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Peter Dy wrote:
"KWR" wrote in message s.com... [...] This isn't a helpful answer to your question, I'm afraid, but an observation of my own: that the shallots-and-garlic phase of the grinding process can be really tricky and frustrating. I have taken to pre-grating these ingredients using a sharp fine grater, then adding and grinding the grated mush into the curry paste as a final step. It cuts down on the dual problems of flying shallot bits and half-smashed but unpulverized flat pieces of garlic / shallot. I used to just slice them finely before adding, but feel that this way works better. Whither authenticity, eh? Hmm. For me, garlic and shallots are the easy part. I just do vertical pounding, with an occassional grind, until they are mush--no unpulverized pieces left. It just takes time. Peter I confess that it's a speed thing - it just agrees with me better to get more or less instantaneous shallot paste using a microplane grater or ginger grater, versus the same result after a considerable period of aiming, bumping and splatting. You could argue that I might as well go adrift completely and use a blender, except that doesn't take into account my passionate hatred for all blenders. I feel that the granite mortar and pestle does a fantastic job on everything else, from lemongrass through ginger through fenugreek through tomatoes through leafy herbs... it's just the alliums which are my nemesis. I've even used it to wet grind dal, a thankless task if ever there was one. I wonder, though, to what extent the shape of the individual pestle influences technique. In particular, for bang-and-smash, I suspect it would be better to have a slightly wider and more gently curved sriking end. Best - krnntp |
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On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:59:51 GMT, "Peter Dy"
wrote: "KWR" wrote in message ws.com... [...] This isn't a helpful answer to your question, I'm afraid, but an observation of my own: that the shallots-and-garlic phase of the grinding process can be really tricky and frustrating. I have taken to pre-grating these ingredients using a sharp fine grater, then adding and grinding the grated mush into the curry paste as a final step. It cuts down on the dual problems of flying shallot bits and half-smashed but unpulverized flat pieces of garlic / shallot. I used to just slice them finely before adding, but feel that this way works better. Whither authenticity, eh? Hmm. For me, garlic and shallots are the easy part. I just do vertical pounding, with an occassional grind, until they are mush--no unpulverized pieces left. It just takes time. Peter Again following the instructions in Cracking the Coconut, I have always started my pastes with garlic and added shallots at the very end. (The latter, incidentally, is what causes my paste to decorate the walls and my clothing.) When you say that the garlic and shallots are the easy part, Peter, do you mean that you mash both of them together, and if so, at the beginning or the end? I'm enjoying all of your comments - thanks. Brett |
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"Brett Maguire" brettwmaguire at yahoo dot com wrote in message ... [...] Again following the instructions in Cracking the Coconut, Brett, did you read the link I gave to Kasma's article? At the time her book, "It Rains Fishes," came out, that was the most detailed description out there. Cracking the Coconut is newer, and I haven't read it, so I don't know the level of detail. Also, it seems her method sounds a little different from Kasma's. I have always started my pastes with garlic and added shallots at the very end. Kasma suggests that a beginner start with dry spices, then go from toughest (like lemon grass) to softer and wetter things. In between each, she suggests you remove them from the mortar, and only at the end should put them all back together and pound to a smooth paste. (The latter, incidentally, is what causes my paste to decorate the walls and my clothing.) How big is your mortar? That might influence things. My new one is 4 inches deep, 6 1/2 inches across the inner bowl. (My old one was much smaller, but I still didn't get much splashing.) When you say that the garlic and shallots are the easy part, Peter, do you mean that you mash both of them together, and if so, at the beginning or the end? I've never pounded them for a Thai curry paste; I've pounded them for other Thai dishes and for Indonesian pastes. I do garlic and shallots together. I start pounding softly, straight up and down. After they break down a bit, then I pound harder. It doesn't splash much for me when I do it like that. If I were you, I'd try Kasma's way of one ingredient at a time. When you get the hang of it, you could move on to more ingredients at once. I also wouldn't worry about the rhythmic sounds until you get the hang of it. And btw, she suggests that it takes about half an hour, so maybe you are going to fast? I'm sure other's have better info than I. Peter |
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I am never sure just how "pastey" the paste should be.
The pastier, the better. While it's difficult to achieve the texture of a commercial curry paste, that's what you should strive for. You should avoid identifiable pieces. The next question is one about mortar and pestle technique. One thing that helps is to pound the harder, tougher ingredients first. If you add them all at the same time, the softer ingredients like shallots will act as a lubricant and cushion, and will keep the tougher ingredients like kaffir lime peel, lemon grass and spices from breaking up. If you start with the hard ingredients first, they will pulverize nicely. Then when you add the softer ingredients the hard stuff will help the soft stuff disintegrate by acting as an abrasive. -- - Jeff Lichtman Author, Baseball for Rookies http://baseball-for-rookies.com/ |
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KWR wrote: KWR wrote: Brett Maguire wrote: Hello, I have two questions regarding Thai curry pastes, the first of which is about the texture of the paste itself. I pound them using a large stone mortar and pestle (the kind for sale on thaigrocer.com). I am never sure just how "pastey" the paste should be. It is clearly one entity, but it is textured; it would never be mistaken for, say, a green smooth Jiffy peanutbutter. How smooth should the paste be? Is it alright for there to be some identifiable pieces of inividual ingredients, or is that an indication that I need to pound more before incorporating the next item? The next question is one about mortar and pestle technique. In Su-Mei Yu's book, Cracking the Coconut, she writes, "finally the familiar rhythmic song of an even pounding sang out from the mortar" (page 203 for you following along in the hardcover copy). Never having worked with a Thai chef, I am uncertain as to what this rhythmic song really is. I find that by pounding straight down into the mortar, the paste slides up the sides in about two or three hits, thus making it necessary to scrape more paste down into the center to continue. The only other option would be to pound against the sides, something which Su-Mei Yu warns against doing. With this constant introsion into the actual pounding, it is difficult to have any regular rhythm. Am I doing something wrong, or do I just have a faulty conception of a pounding rhythm? Thanks, Brett Hi Brett, This isn't a helpful answer to your question, I'm afraid, but an observation of my own: that the shallots-and-garlic phase of the grinding process can be really tricky and frustrating. I have taken to pre-grating these ingredients using a sharp fine grater, then adding and grinding the grated mush into the curry paste as a final step. It cuts down on the dual problems of flying shallot bits and half-smashed but unpulverized flat pieces of garlic / shallot. I used to just slice them finely before adding, but feel that this way works better. Whither authenticity, eh? krnntp By the way, my grinding technique is a clockwise or counterclockwise rubbing / crushing / rolling motion. Depending on how much the mixture is riding up the sides of the mortar, I will either widen the diameter of my path, or try smooshing it downward using vertical wiping strokes. Sometimes I've resorted to stopping periodically to wipe the admixture back into place with a hand or utensil. Like Brett, I'd be interested to hear anyone's comments on how it is actually *supposed* to be done. I'm a bit skeptical of the "bop - bop - bop" vertical hammer approach which seems to be one philosophical way of approaching a mortar and pestle. A limited amount of striking seems to be useful to fragment and destroy large ingredients, but when it comes to the fine processing of a paste, I feel like I get a lot more return on work when the pestle rarely leaves the grinding surface. Best - krnntp As I write this, I'm watching, and listening too my housekeeper make a red curry paste....The motion is a twisting/stirring movement, alternating...The stirring is mostly to clean the sides and position for the twisting (grinding) motion... The Bop bop bop is used in making something like som tam, where it's more of a 'softening-up' kind of purpose. Stuff like garlic, is tossed in as a whole clove, bopped a bit, then, sometimes, twisted, to really pulp it out. Thais seem to prefer the chunky garlic, rather than a garlic paste, though. Oh, and the paste is fairly dry....a bit like play dough, or sand with just enough moisture to mold, but no liquids oozing... Like this........ (showing it to my com)...See? Lawrence Chiang Mai |
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"Lawrence" wrote in message ... [...] As I write this, I'm watching, and listening too my housekeeper make a red curry paste....The motion is a twisting/stirring movement, alternating...The stirring is mostly to clean the sides and position for the twisting (grinding) motion... Lawrence, is that with a granite mortar and pestle? I've tried that with, say, garlic, and the sides are too smooth for it to work. Hmmm... [...] Oh, and the paste is fairly dry....a bit like play dough, or sand with just enough moisture to mold, but no liquids oozing... Like this........ (showing it to my com)...See? As Rona says, "Where's the pics?!" Peter ![]() |
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Peter Dy wrote: "Lawrence" wrote in message ... [...] As I write this, I'm watching, and listening too my housekeeper make a red curry paste....The motion is a twisting/stirring movement, alternating...The stirring is mostly to clean the sides and position for the twisting (grinding) motion... Lawrence, is that with a granite mortar and pestle? I've tried that with, say, garlic, and the sides are too smooth for it to work. Hmmm... [...] Oh, and the paste is fairly dry....a bit like play dough, or sand with just enough moisture to mold, but no liquids oozing... Like this........ (showing it to my com)...See? As Rona says, "Where's the pics?!" Peter ![]() Peter, my housekeeper loves the red clay mortars (with stone and wooden pestles)...She says the stone ones are too 'High So' (High Society) Personally, I love the stone ones for making Peanut Butter....A small jar of Skippy is about $8US here.... Now, if I could only figure out the recipe for Flint's (Oakland, Ca.) BBQ sauce..... You can get to miss some of the weirdest things from 'home' sometimes...A while ago, it was Butterfingers. I don't know why...I think the last one I had was about 30 years ago... Speaking of food cravings, it reminds me of an American Monk I met in Thailand some years ago. He had joined the ThammaYut sect, which the King also belonged to, and it's quite a bit stricter than the Theravada sect, the largest Buddhist sect in Thailand. He's been in Thailand almost 40 years, but he was telling me that when he was living in an Issan wat, he often prayed for a pizza and chilled green salad while was doing his morning rounds collecting food... ;-) Lawrence |
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"Lawrence" wrote in message ... Peter Dy wrote: "Lawrence" wrote in message ... [...] As I write this, I'm watching, and listening too my housekeeper make a red curry paste....The motion is a twisting/stirring movement, alternating...The stirring is mostly to clean the sides and position for the twisting (grinding) motion... Lawrence, is that with a granite mortar and pestle? I've tried that with, say, garlic, and the sides are too smooth for it to work. Hmmm... [...] Oh, and the paste is fairly dry....a bit like play dough, or sand with just enough moisture to mold, but no liquids oozing... Like this........ (showing it to my com)...See? As Rona says, "Where's the pics?!" Peter ![]() Peter, my housekeeper loves the red clay mortars (with stone and wooden pestles)... Ah, ok. Yeah, the motions used for clay ones are different than those used for the granite ones. And those used for Indonesian-style mortars and pestles differ yet again. Never seen the latter in the States though. You can get to miss some of the weirdest things from 'home' sometimes...A while ago, it was Butterfingers. I don't know why...I think the last one I had was about 30 years ago... Hehe. I can see that, though those Chinese, pounded peanut candies are very similar, just without the chocolate. I missed Doritos. Speaking of food cravings, it reminds me of an American Monk I met in Thailand some years ago. He had joined the ThammaYut sect, which the King also belonged to, and it's quite a bit stricter than the Theravada sect, the largest Buddhist sect in Thailand. He's been in Thailand almost 40 years, but he was telling me that when he was living in an Issan wat, he often prayed for a pizza and chilled green salad while was doing his morning rounds collecting food... There's an good movie about 2 Germans attending a monestary in Japan, called Enlightenment Guaranteed. Pretty funny. No food cravings though. I think you meant that ThammaYut is smaller than the largest sect, MahaNikai. Both are Theravada. Peter |
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Peter Dy wrote: "Lawrence" wrote in message ... Peter Dy wrote: "Lawrence" wrote in message ... [...] As I write this, I'm watching, and listening too my housekeeper make a red curry paste....The motion is a twisting/stirring movement, alternating...The stirring is mostly to clean the sides and position for the twisting (grinding) motion... Lawrence, is that with a granite mortar and pestle? I've tried that with, say, garlic, and the sides are too smooth for it to work. Hmmm... [...] Oh, and the paste is fairly dry....a bit like play dough, or sand with just enough moisture to mold, but no liquids oozing... Like this........ (showing it to my com)...See? As Rona says, "Where's the pics?!" Peter ![]() Peter, my housekeeper loves the red clay mortars (with stone and wooden pestles)... Ah, ok. Yeah, the motions used for clay ones are different than those used for the granite ones. And those used for Indonesian-style mortars and pestles differ yet again. Never seen the latter in the States though. You can get to miss some of the weirdest things from 'home' sometimes...A while ago, it was Butterfingers. I don't know why...I think the last one I had was about 30 years ago... Hehe. I can see that, though those Chinese, pounded peanut candies are very similar, just without the chocolate. I missed Doritos. Speaking of food cravings, it reminds me of an American Monk I met in Thailand some years ago. He had joined the ThammaYut sect, which the King also belonged to, and it's quite a bit stricter than the Theravada sect, the largest Buddhist sect in Thailand. He's been in Thailand almost 40 years, but he was telling me that when he was living in an Issan wat, he often prayed for a pizza and chilled green salad while was doing his morning rounds collecting food... There's an good movie about 2 Germans attending a monestary in Japan, called Enlightenment Guaranteed. Pretty funny. No food cravings though. I think you meant that ThammaYut is smaller than the largest sect, MahaNikai. Both are Theravada. Yes, you're right...A bit of late night brainfreeze on my part ![]() Peter |
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On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 11:02:50 +0700, Lawrence
wrote: As I write this, I'm watching, and listening too my housekeeper make a red curry paste....The motion is a twisting/stirring movement, alternating...The stirring is mostly to clean the sides and position for the twisting (grinding) motion... The Bop bop bop is used in making something like som tam, where it's more of a 'softening-up' kind of purpose. Stuff like garlic, is tossed in as a whole clove, bopped a bit, then, sometimes, twisted, to really pulp it out. Thais seem to prefer the chunky garlic, rather than a garlic paste, though. Oh, and the paste is fairly dry....a bit like play dough, or sand with just enough moisture to mold, but no liquids oozing... Like this........ (showing it to my com)...See? Sounds more like chilli paste to me SIAOGU The husband is the head of the house. The wife is the neck. And the neck turns the head. |
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