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| Asian Cooking (alt.food.asian) A newsgroup for the discussion of recipes, ingredients, equipment and techniques used specifically in the preparation of Asian foods. |
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In article ,
Kenneth wrote: Howdy, I have been trying to get an authentic recipe for lai mein (hand pulled) Chinese noodles. Also, it is often suggested that the dough contain a small amount of what is often called Kan Sui, or "lye water" (actually a solution of potassium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate), but this seems to have the opposite of the intended effect. My understanding this is added to color the noodles, but not sure it is added to hand pulled noodle. What is your source that this is an ingredient? Might you know of a lai mein noodle dough recipe that actually works? Have you tried it? I cannot claim to have great expertise but I have had a casual interest in this ever since I have watched Chinese Chef's do it on TV. Anyway I stumbled on this site when I was in my information hunting mode: http://www.melcherruwart.com/Pages/Noodles.htm It recounts a families experience with an expert noodle puller and has quite a few tips. In the text he mentions that the puller smeared the dough with a sulfur smelling compound. The compound identity was not revealed but my GUESS was that it was "Kala Namak" or Indian "black salt" that you can find at an Indian grocery store. This has a strong sulphurous odor and is food safe and commonly used in India. This has sodium sulfide as an ingredient and could act as a reducer. I conjectured about this and Roy Basan seemed to think it might work (I searched but could not find my original post or Roy's reply). I tried it and had no recipe to follow and was flying blind. I made a solution and smeared it over the dough that was rolled flat. This really did seem to make the dough more extensible but my noodle pulling technique was so so. I did not pursue this much but it might be a beginning. You might also want to try Laura Brody's dough relaxer. Cysteine might also work if you can get your hands on it. If you have other sources of information and recipes I would love to hear abut them because I might come back to it at some time. When I was in my information gathering mode a Chinese student told me her father made them and he used a great deal of oil in the dough. I think in this approach you are trying to keep the gluten chains short and oil achieves this. I did not pursue this approach because I did not want a rich dough. The guy periodically visits the US and I might corner him to watch his technique and get a recipe on his next visit. This is probably not the right forum for this and I have crossposted to alt.food.asian. Roland |
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On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 20:40:18 -0600, Joe Doe
wrote: Hi Roland, Please see my comments inline below... In article , Kenneth wrote: Howdy, I have been trying to get an authentic recipe for lai mein (hand pulled) Chinese noodles. Also, it is often suggested that the dough contain a small amount of what is often called Kan Sui, or "lye water" (actually a solution of potassium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate), but this seems to have the opposite of the intended effect. My understanding this is added to color the noodles, but not sure it is added to hand pulled noodle. What is your source that this is an ingredient? I have read scores of sources. "Lye Water" is often mentioned. Most recently, this was suggested to me on rec.food.cooking: "Here's a recipe from a favorite food blog I visit often: http://lilyng2000.blogspot.com/2005/...kkien-mee.html They're cut, rather than pulled, but I think the recipe will work." Might you know of a lai mein noodle dough recipe that actually works? Have you tried it? I cannot claim to have great expertise but I have had a casual interest in this ever since I have watched Chinese Chef's do it on TV. Anyway I stumbled on this site when I was in my information hunting mode: http://www.melcherruwart.com/Pages/Noodles.htm The site above is wonderful...! Thanks. It recounts a families experience with an expert noodle puller and has quite a few tips. In the text he mentions that the puller smeared the dough with a sulfur smelling compound. The compound identity was not revealed but my GUESS was that it was "Kala Namak" or Indian "black salt" that you can find at an Indian grocery store. This has a strong sulphurous odor and is food safe and commonly used in India. This has sodium sulfide as an ingredient and could act as a reducer. I conjectured about this and Roy Basan seemed to think it might work (I searched but could not find my original post or Roy's reply). I tried it and had no recipe to follow and was flying blind. I made a solution and smeared it over the dough that was rolled flat. This really did seem to make the dough more extensible but my noodle pulling technique was so so. I did not pursue this much but it might be a beginning. My quest for "Kala Namak" has begun... You might also want to try Laura Brody's dough relaxer. Cysteine might also work if you can get your hands on it. If you have other sources of information and recipes I would love to hear abut them because I might come back to it at some time. I'll keep you posted... When I was in my information gathering mode a Chinese student told me her father made them and he used a great deal of oil in the dough. I think in this approach you are trying to keep the gluten chains short and oil achieves this. I did not pursue this approach because I did not want a rich dough. The guy periodically visits the US and I might corner him to watch his technique and get a recipe on his next visit. The oil possibility is interesting. It is another one of those "some do and some don't" things that tell me that these many authors have never actually gone so far as to use their own (suggested) recipes. It does not seem to me that we want short gluten chains though. It would seem that we want long chains oriented in a linear way (rather than the clustered, or "cork screw" chains I believe are produced by the addition of the "lye water." This is probably not the right forum for this and I have crossposted to alt.food.asian. Roland I look forward to seeing you over at alt.food.asian and very much appreciate your response to my post. It is, by far, the most useful I have received thus far. All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
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Kenneth wrote:
On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 20:40:18 -0600, Joe Doe wrote: snip This is probably not the right forum for this and I have crossposted to alt.food.asian. Roland I look forward to seeing you over at alt.food.asian and very much appreciate your response to my post. It may be a little off topice but I dig enjoy the post and fine it much more interesting when a lot of other pose here. Joe Umstead |
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On Sat, 06 Jan 2007 11:01:19 -0500, Kenneth
wrote: On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 20:40:18 -0600, Joe Doe wrote: Hi again Roland, I looked for Kala Namak at our one Asian grocery, but had no luck. Then, I came upon this: http://www.amazon.com/Indian-Black-S.../dp/B000B63J3S it says that the stuff is potassium chloride... More later, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
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Hello, Kenneth!
You wrote on Sat, 06 Jan 2007 13:06:54 -0500: ?? On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 20:40:18 -0600, Joe Doe ?? wrote: ?? K Hi again Roland, K I looked for Kala Namak at our one Asian grocery, but had no K luck. K Then, I came upon this: K http://www.amazon.com/Indian-Black-S.../dp/B000B63J3S K it says that the stuff is potassium chloride... It's interesting that the Wikipedia article manages to say it is KCl and NaCl in adjacent paragraphs http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_salt I suspect it is not KCl and any lessening of saltiness is due to the contaminants (IMHO) that make it black. I have seen colored salts being produced in outdoor salt pans in Hawaii. James Silverton Potomac, Maryland E-mail, with obvious alterations: not.jim.silverton.at.comcast.not |
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Joe Doe wrote:
In article , Kenneth wrote: Howdy, I have been trying to get an authentic recipe for lai mein (hand pulled) Chinese noodles. [snip] dough with a sulfur smelling compound. The compound identity was not revealed but my GUESS was that it was "Kala Namak" or Indian "black salt" that you can find at an Indian grocery store. This has a strong [snip] Hi Roland and All Here are two mail order sources for "Kala Namak," a sulfurous volcanic salt. It is available in two websites, one selling Ajika brand at $3 / 2oz jar and another non-branded $8 / 8oz bag. Both are located in Minnesota (go figure) Ajika is a self brand from IndianFoodCo.com based in Bloomington, Minn http://store.indianfoodsco.com/groce...ountryorderid= The other is a bagged imported salt. http://www.wildernessfamilynaturals....gory_Code=HFHS HTH, PLA |
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On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 20:40:18 -0600, Joe Doe
wrote: Hi Roland, Based upon the assumption that Kala Namak is (mostly) potassium chloride. I thought that I would experiment with that notion. I was able to get some (it's a common "salt substitute" for folks wanting to cut their intake of sodium) and have experimented using it in the dough at a few different rates. It seems to make no difference whatever in the "stretch factor." I will certainly try to get some proper Kala Namak and will let you know of my results. All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
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In article ,
Kenneth wrote: On Sat, 06 Jan 2007 11:01:19 -0500, Kenneth wrote: On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 20:40:18 -0600, Joe Doe wrote: Hi again Roland, I looked for Kala Namak at our one Asian grocery, but had no luck. Then, I came upon this: http://www.amazon.com/Indian-Black-S.../dp/B000B63J3S it says that the stuff is potassium chloride... More later, Gernot Katzer who maintains the excellent spice pages tracked down the composition and it is found here. This source does not have KCl as an ingredient. http://groups.google.com/group/alt.f...read/689682f62 02c671/94357c5abc786d7e?lnk=st&q=kala+namak+composition&r num=1&hl=en#9435 7c5abc786d7e This site has a bag of what it looks like. http://www.wildernessfamilynaturals....mvc?Screen=PRO D&Product_Code=SALTKFH&Category_Code=HFHS If you cannot find a local source I could mail you some. Roland |
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In article ,
Kenneth wrote: On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 20:40:18 -0600, Joe Doe My understanding this is added to color the noodles, but not sure it is added to hand pulled noodle. What is your source that this is an ingredient? I have read scores of sources. "Lye Water" is often mentioned. I think it is used commonly for color but not for the purpose you want. My source for this information is a technical paper on Asian noodle technology put out by the American Institue of Baking that has a very good review of the different noodles and their formulation: https://secure.aibonline.org/catalog...e/V20Iss12.pdf Roland |
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In article ,
"James Silverton" not.jim.silverton.at.comcast.not wrote: n.com/Indian-Black-Salt-Kala-Namak/dp/B000B63J3S K it says that the stuff is potassium chloride... It's interesting that the Wikipedia article manages to say it is KCl and NaCl in adjacent paragraphs http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_salt I suspect it is not KCl and any lessening of saltiness is due to the contaminants (IMHO) that make it black. I have seen colored salts being produced in outdoor salt pans in Hawaii. James Silverton Potomac, Maryland The wiki article also says it has almost no odour which is definitely not true - it has a pungent sulfurous odour that is unmistakable. Roland |
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On Sat, 06 Jan 2007 19:10:05 -0600, Joe Doe
wrote: In article , Kenneth wrote: On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 20:40:18 -0600, Joe Doe My understanding this is added to color the noodles, but not sure it is added to hand pulled noodle. What is your source that this is an ingredient? I have read scores of sources. "Lye Water" is often mentioned. I think it is used commonly for color but not for the purpose you want. My source for this information is a technical paper on Asian noodle technology put out by the American Institue of Baking that has a very good review of the different noodles and their formulation: https://secure.aibonline.org/catalog...e/V20Iss12.pdf Roland Hi Roland, Based on my experiments, I fully agree that the addition of "lye water" is definitely not the way to go for the pulled noodles. I appreciate your offer of some of the "black salt" but have already ordered some online. Beyond that, I stumbled onto something interesting relating to the odor of the salt: I read a technical article from the pizza industry. It mentioned that to increase dough extensibility one should consider the addition of "L-Cysteine." That (as you might know) turns out to be a sulfur based amino acid! Let's assume for the moment that the "magic sauce" (as described in the link you provided earlier of the family learning to pull the noodles) is, indeed, a solution of kala namak. Would you have any guess about why it was added to the kneaded dough rather than being used as its initial source of hydration? In any case, it would appear that my experiments are stalled until I receive my order for "black salt." We will soon become noodle masters in our respective communities... All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
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Joe Doe wrote:
snipped You might also want to try Laura Brody's dough relaxer. Cysteine might also work if you can get your hands on it. If you have other sources of information and recipes I would love to hear abut them because I might come back to it at some time. snipped Just a completely wild stab here, but could the 'magic sauce' mixture have been hartshorn aka ammonium bicarbonate? It is commonly mixed with water before using. It has an ammonia-like odor which isn't exactly sulfurous, but then not exactly not. It was commonly used as a leavener in Scandinavia before the advent of baking soda and powder now in modern times. I still have a cookie recipe that calls for it and a small stash. I'm not sharing, however, I think it's available at King Arthur and other places. ![]() -- Saara |
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On Sun, 07 Jan 2007 06:22:42 GMT, Saara
wrote: Just a completely wild stab here, but could the 'magic sauce' mixture have been hartshorn aka ammonium bicarbonate? It is commonly mixed with water before using. Howdy, I thank you for the suggestion, but I believe it will not do the job. Hartshorn is a leavening. It makes the dough rise by producing gas. I'm looking for materials that will make a wheat dough super-extensible. I want to be able to take a ball of dough the size of my fist, and stretch it about six feet. Any additional thoughts would be most welcome... All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
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On Sat, 06 Jan 2007 19:10:05 -0600, Joe Doe
wrote: In article , Kenneth wrote: On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 20:40:18 -0600, Joe Doe My understanding this is added to color the noodles, but not sure it is added to hand pulled noodle. What is your source that this is an ingredient? I have read scores of sources. "Lye Water" is often mentioned. I think it is used commonly for color but not for the purpose you want. My source for this information is a technical paper on Asian noodle technology put out by the American Institue of Baking that has a very good review of the different noodles and their formulation: https://secure.aibonline.org/catalog...e/V20Iss12.pdf Roland Hi Roland, I just had some very interesting progress, though in an unexpected direction... I knew that if (as has happened on occasion) I forgot to turn my mixer off, it produced dough with a very odd "syrupy" texture. That is, the gluten's elasticity seemed all but gone, but its extensibility remained. I just tried that approach for the noodle dough, and indeed, it works... almost... It did allow me to pull 16 strands (of reasonably fine noodles.) but then, they started to tear. Further experimentation seemed to indicate that such diminution in extensibility was caused by a drop in temperature. (When I took the dough from the mixer, it was at about 80F with a room temperature of 68F.) Also, I learned something about the pulling that is counter-intuitive (at lest for me): When I stretched the dough, my every impulse is to do it cautiously so as to avoid breaking the strands. In fact, if I just give 'em a rough pull, they are much less likely to break. I have some kala namak on order, but will definitely continue to experiment with this mechanical approach as well. I have done it only this one time and that with very high protein flour. Later today, I will give it a try with lower protein flour, and will let you know if anything interesting happens. All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
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In article ,
Kenneth wrote: On Sat, 06 Jan 2007 19:10:05 -0600, Joe Doe wrote: In article , I just had some very interesting progress, though in an unexpected direction... I knew that if (as has happened on occasion) I forgot to turn my mixer off, it produced dough with a very odd "syrupy" texture. That is, the gluten's elasticity seemed all but gone, but its extensibility remained. I just tried that approach for the noodle dough, and indeed, it works... almost... It did allow me to pull 16 strands (of reasonably fine noodles.) but then, they started to tear. It is well known that if you overwork dough the gluten breaks down. It is physically sheared by the mechanical action. Thus the elasticity is gone (irreversibly). What you are trying to achieve is something conceptually similar but chemically - i.e. the kala namak or cysteine etc. will break down inter-strand cross-links and thus make the dough more extensible while preserving a long gluten chain (the hope is to have long chains with few(er) inter strand cross-links). But being chemical the reaction is somewhat reversible. Following up on your idea however, THERE IS an aspect to the technique which is important in terms of mechanical development. If you notice the pullers use a kneading action of repeatedly pulling and folding BEFORE they actually try to pull the noodles. I believe that this serves to align the chains into longer and longer lengths while breaking down the inter-strand links i.e. it is a subtle manipulation to mechanically achieve what I have described. I would roll the dough into a long thin log, fold back on itself and repeat many times and allow the dough to rest if necessary (maybe even over the course of a day i.e. repeat the folding every few hours if it proves to be too elastic). I think this will greatly help your efforts. Roland |
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