Rioja redux
Mike Tommasi wrote in
:
Hi Santiago
This system makes a choice very difficult. As you know, to a
non-spanish palate many of these wines appear hugely overoaked. What I
have always found difficult is finding the vintage that has enough
substance to it to match the oak. I would imagine from the above that
I should look for Reserva 94-95-01, but stick to Crianza for the
lesser years.
It all dependes. Just think that the difference between Reserva and
Crianza is not always related to oak-aging period:
- Crianza: 24 months total, 12 months minimum in oak barrels.
- Reserva: 36 months total, 12 months minimum in oak barrels.
That said, I have had good Reservas from the lesser 1997 vintage, and
bad ones from the very good 1996.
So, again, my advice is... check the producer. I really agree with you
when you say that many classic riojas are overoaked, and that's why I
usually prefer crianzas for the everyday and reservas from selected
producers and vintages. What classic Rioja do I have in my (sort of)
cellar?:
- Marqués de Cáceres "Reserva" 1994 ( I didn't like the 95 so much)
- Viña Albina "Reserva Especial" 1995 (I didn't like the plain reserva
as much as this Reserva Especial)
- Marqués de Murrieta "Reserva" 1998 (99 is said to be even better)
- Muga "Reserva Especial" 1995 (Muga is usually a sure choice).
These three are Reservas from Rioja in which I feel there is enough
fruit to balance the oak, while following a classic style. However, I am
more in the new style (Roda I, Artadi Pagos Viejos, Finca Allende or
Sierra Cantabria).
Best,
Santiago
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