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Old 05-04-2008, 04:11 AM posted to rec.food.historic
Mark Zanger
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Posts: 22
Default fierce critic of Julia Child -- Karen Hess

Don't look at Taste of America if you don't want to read a critic of Julia
Child. Soften yourself up with Karen Hess's American edition of the
Elizabeth David Bread Book, an utter classic and full of fussy detail. Then
try her edition of The Virginia Housewife, her favorite 19th century
American cookbook and the sort of thing she contrasted Child to.


--
-Mark Zanger, author
The American Ethnic Cookbook for Students
www.ethnicook.com
The American History Cookbook
www.historycook.com


"Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message
3.184...
On Wed 05 Mar 2008 03:31:56a, Lazarus Cooke told us...

In article 4, Wayne
Boatwright wrote:


I have not ready anything by this author, but I think anyone who is
seriously critical of Julia Child as a cook should be seriously ignored.


No, definitely not. I'd been a fan for thirty odd years, but the Hess
book's accusations are very convincing. For a flavour (or should that
be flavor?) see some extracts at

http://preview.tinyurl.com/2j87qp

Their main criticisms are that Child is unneccessarily fussy, sets
technique above good, fresh ingredients, and uses far too much flour.


Again, without having read the book, I totally disagree with the above. I
don't think anyone can be unneccessarily fussy in the kitchen. Technique
is all important, and I believe Child always stressed fresh ingredients.
Flour is a variable in many uses.

Perhaps I'll take a look at the excerpt or the book, but I doubt it will
change my mind about Child.

It is a brilliant and, as you'll see if you do a hunt back through this
newsgroup, a seminal book.

It's also, while being very critical of some aspects of modern America,
particularly ** and admirably ** American in its no-nonsense
robustness.

Lazarus




--
Wayne Boatwright
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